I currently convert vehicles into 4 wheel drive. I design parts, suspension improvements, analyze suspension dynamicks,
etc.|||www.careerpakistan.org, www.PakistanJobsOnline.com, www.tiptopjob.com, www.Go-Jobs.com, www.getpakistan.com, www.jobspk.com, www.pakistanjobs.com, www.jobsindubai.com, www.jobs.pakistanway.com,www.rozee.com, www.gulfjobsites.com.|||Monster.com is a good place to look for jobs, and it also allows potential employers to find you, just place a resume on monster.com / then let your resume work for you.|||try google|||Yes!|||Hope these websites can help you.
http://hotjobs.yahoo.com
http://www.craigslist.org
http://www.usejob.com
Saturday, December 24, 2011
I just bought a cooling fan relay for a1999 jeep grand cherokee 4.0 all wheel drive where is it located ?
i have changed the relay sensor that is located in the front and changed the relay switches in the fuse box ,my chiltons book said its located in the right front fender but i cant find it anywhere,the part i need to find looks as though it should be mounted on the fire wall some place it has a metal bracket on the back with what appears to be 2 screw holes .any help appreciated greatly.ps the fan is not burned out we wired it direct to see that was not the problem thank you|||i own a repair shop,and if you,ll look on the fire wall i think it mounts on it, its been a while since i done a jeep,but I'm pretty sure this is where its at,good luck i hope this help,s.|||pop the hood it could be mounted under there behind the fender i know they are usually on drivers sides right behind the fender mounted by screws|||Your Chilton's should have a picture of the location. If not look on the fender well either on the left or right. There should be a box with fuses and relays in it. If not there then look near the engine fire wall. It should be there some place. Other wise follow the wiring. You may have to contact your nearest dealer. They could tell you.|||You have the wrong part for a cooling fan relay. The correct item is square and has no bracket on it. It fits into a well in the relay and fuse box at the right (passenger's) side of the engine bay. If you remove the cover, it is clearly identified.
Good Luck
Good Luck
Is 250 usd a good price for 4 alloy bmw 325i 7 spoke wheels and tires? supposedly in good condition?
If so, how much can i sell them for? here is a link to the wheels; they are the 3rd ones down
http://www.originalwheels.com/bmw-wheels/325i2002rims.php
Wheel Part Number: #59289
2001-2006 BMW 325i|||K,
Yes, actually these do appear to be very reasonably price. If you can have the shipped at a good rate they are indeed a respectable deal. Looks good!
http://www.originalwheels.com/bmw-wheels/325i2002rims.php
Wheel Part Number: #59289
2001-2006 BMW 325i|||K,
Yes, actually these do appear to be very reasonably price. If you can have the shipped at a good rate they are indeed a respectable deal. Looks good!
Is 250 usd a good price for 4 alloy bmw 325i 7 spoke wheels and tires? supposedly in good condition?
if so, how much can i sell them for? here is a link to the wheels; they are the 3rd ones down
http://www.originalwheels.com/bmw-wheels/325i2002rims.php
Wheel Part Number: #59289
2001-2006 BMW 325i|||Toooooo MUCH! The world is OVERFLOWING with GREAT used wheels... It shocks me what people will pay for wheels.. The fact remain that cars are taken off the road everyday be it due to accident or just to costly to fix and nobody will buy it.. BUT with each of these cars taken off the road more wheels are dropped on the market.. YES yes some wheels are in bad shape be it curb rash or just old and beaten or bent destroyed in an accident.
All over the world there are garages and closets that have great sets of wheels in them and the owner refuses to sell for what they are really worth.. SO wheels are like Diamonds and the wheel owners are the DeBeers co, Usually if the wheels are nice but not rare or special in any way they are worth about 50 bucks a pop. Special wheels are super light weight and strong usually forged.. Most wheels are CHEAP but even tho they are cheap people are memorized by their looks..|||Well it depends how you define "supposeldy good condition." If you are able to spray them with mag shine or something and make it look practically brand new i would suggest starting at about 425USD, to be honest those Wheels isn't really all that and I would never purchase for a 325i, it looks like something from a polo classic bro, but there probably is someone who is you just need to find him/her. But around the 400USD area would be suitable.
http://www.originalwheels.com/bmw-wheels/325i2002rims.php
Wheel Part Number: #59289
2001-2006 BMW 325i|||Toooooo MUCH! The world is OVERFLOWING with GREAT used wheels... It shocks me what people will pay for wheels.. The fact remain that cars are taken off the road everyday be it due to accident or just to costly to fix and nobody will buy it.. BUT with each of these cars taken off the road more wheels are dropped on the market.. YES yes some wheels are in bad shape be it curb rash or just old and beaten or bent destroyed in an accident.
All over the world there are garages and closets that have great sets of wheels in them and the owner refuses to sell for what they are really worth.. SO wheels are like Diamonds and the wheel owners are the DeBeers co, Usually if the wheels are nice but not rare or special in any way they are worth about 50 bucks a pop. Special wheels are super light weight and strong usually forged.. Most wheels are CHEAP but even tho they are cheap people are memorized by their looks..|||Well it depends how you define "supposeldy good condition." If you are able to spray them with mag shine or something and make it look practically brand new i would suggest starting at about 425USD, to be honest those Wheels isn't really all that and I would never purchase for a 325i, it looks like something from a polo classic bro, but there probably is someone who is you just need to find him/her. But around the 400USD area would be suitable.
Where can you find parts for a 2004 Suzuki Ozark atv?
When you replace the front wheel bearings and the seals, there's two removable parts that the seals ride on to keep the dirt out. These pieces are not sold with the bearing kit and are not sold by the Suzuki dealer seperately. The Suzuki dealer told me I have to buy the whole steering knuckle just to get those two sleeves. $250 just for 4 sleeves is ridiculous. Who can supply me with these parts.|||http://www.bikebandit.com
I need help for my project-i need to make a colour wheel that spins with an arrow at the middle?
i will not use colours i will have 4 parts
im having trouble about how to spin the arrow at the middle of the wheel
what things do i need to make it spin
ok tnx|||They're called well, i can't remember but I'll explain them. Theyr'e made from brass, have a small round flat button on one end, the other has 2 long flat thingys that you can split. So.. you make your wheel, make a bottom to it, put a hole in the middle, insert one of the thingys, flip it over, spread the 2 long parts and viola, it will spin. Hope that helps, go to a craft store, they can show you what i mean.
im having trouble about how to spin the arrow at the middle of the wheel
what things do i need to make it spin
ok tnx|||They're called well, i can't remember but I'll explain them. Theyr'e made from brass, have a small round flat button on one end, the other has 2 long flat thingys that you can split. So.. you make your wheel, make a bottom to it, put a hole in the middle, insert one of the thingys, flip it over, spread the 2 long parts and viola, it will spin. Hope that helps, go to a craft store, they can show you what i mean.
1992 dakota interchangeable parts?
can a dodge dakota get parts from other trucks other than dodge interchangeable parts or what trucks can interchange with a 1992 dakota 2 or 4 wheel drive?|||Check with a salvage yard, they have interchange info.
What price is fair for wrecked 1987 toyota pick up for parts?
want to sell just had put a 22 R carbeurated motor with 90,000 miles on it.has a 5 speed transmission.2 good tires and 4 wheels.I need 700.00 to pay it off.Is this a fair price.They also will have to tow it|||If someone is looking for the major parts (Engine/Tranny) you have, you might be able to get that much. If you have the time and the space the best way to make the most money off of it is to part out the parts individually. I would try to sell it as a whole car first through craigslist (in autos and in auto parts). Be very specific about all the parts it has, so anyone searching for something specific will come across your ad.
Good luck!|||No more than $300 since it is too old.
An 87 is only worth about $800 in good condition.
Good luck!|||No more than $300 since it is too old.
An 87 is only worth about $800 in good condition.
F 250 super duty wheel bearing went out ?
When looking up replacement part I had the option of 2 wheel anti lock brakes or 4 wheel anti lock brakes . I know the front is anti lock but how do I determine if the rear are anti lock or just standard ?
The truck is a ford f 250 super duty 4x4with the 7.3 diesel motor.|||just read the numbers on bearing or take it with you to parts store... and really to tell just remover back wheel you see any type of wire running to brake system you got anti lock brake cause most brake dont have any wires|||look to see if your rear line(s) come out of the modulator or just the master cylinder.
The truck is a ford f 250 super duty 4x4with the 7.3 diesel motor.|||just read the numbers on bearing or take it with you to parts store... and really to tell just remover back wheel you see any type of wire running to brake system you got anti lock brake cause most brake dont have any wires|||look to see if your rear line(s) come out of the modulator or just the master cylinder.
Part time 4x4 to full time 4x4 conversion kits?
Are there any relatively inexpensive solutions for changing an 96' jeep cherokee with part time 4 wheel drive, to full time?|||You have the Command-Trac (NP231) transfer case which is a part time transfer case only transfer case. You need a Selec-Trac transfer case (NP242) which is part time OR Full time. So basically you need a new NP242 transfer case.|||In addition, the different transfer cases may require different drive shaft lengths.|||While this is not that difficult but you do need to know what the input splines are because an older cherokee NV241(slec trac) I believe is a 21 spline while the newer ones off liberties have the 23 Spline, The clutch packs they put in the NV241 on older ones could have gone to crap so I would be sorta careful if you go cheap and buy from a junkyard! you should not need a longer driveshaft for this installation as the NV241 is not much bigger then the NV231
HAIKU in 4 parts ODe to a Tuesday July 5th that feels like a Monday, can you relate?
A hundred hamsters
In hollowed out cranium
Running on empty
Spin the squeaky wheels
Glowing red hot from friction
Fueled by cold coffee
ASPCA
Must be called ASAP
Animals will die
Firework weekend
Alcohol soaked and hazy
A price must be paid|||Hamsters are funny, but they are not aquatic. Just sayin.|||Some, dont seem to fit the 5 - 7- 5, but I've been wrong before.
In checkin I apologize.
I might argue ASPCA but a triflin matter|||At least the hamsters are in the CRANIAL cavity. It would otherwise be considered felching.
In hollowed out cranium
Running on empty
Spin the squeaky wheels
Glowing red hot from friction
Fueled by cold coffee
ASPCA
Must be called ASAP
Animals will die
Firework weekend
Alcohol soaked and hazy
A price must be paid|||Hamsters are funny, but they are not aquatic. Just sayin.|||Some, dont seem to fit the 5 - 7- 5, but I've been wrong before.
In checkin I apologize.
I might argue ASPCA but a triflin matter|||At least the hamsters are in the CRANIAL cavity. It would otherwise be considered felching.
Will the great grey mare Forever Together win the G1 Diana Stakes Saturday July 31 at Saratoga?
my selections: 4-1-6-7
the play: $1 pick 3 part wheel: 4,1,6,7 w/ 5.6.8,1 w/2.9 = $32
Good luck all.|||4- Forever Together - Looking to win third straight Diana. Defiantly putting her on top.
6- Shared Account-
Shared Account captured last year鈥檚 Grade 2 Lake Placid in her lone previous effort at the Spa and enters the Diana off a one-length victory over Grade 3 winner Dynaslew in the Grade 3 All Along at Colonial Downs in June.
2- My Princess Jess- 3rd behind Proviso and Phola in G1 Just a Game.
1- Proviso- Back-to-back flat mile G1 wins..could be there.
As always, too early...not sure of type of bet just yet..! Sure of Selections though.
:)
the play: $1 pick 3 part wheel: 4,1,6,7 w/ 5.6.8,1 w/2.9 = $32
Good luck all.|||4- Forever Together - Looking to win third straight Diana. Defiantly putting her on top.
6- Shared Account-
Shared Account captured last year鈥檚 Grade 2 Lake Placid in her lone previous effort at the Spa and enters the Diana off a one-length victory over Grade 3 winner Dynaslew in the Grade 3 All Along at Colonial Downs in June.
2- My Princess Jess- 3rd behind Proviso and Phola in G1 Just a Game.
1- Proviso- Back-to-back flat mile G1 wins..could be there.
As always, too early...not sure of type of bet just yet..! Sure of Selections though.
:)
Consequences and advantages of converting front wheel drive into awd?
lets jus foget the expensive part 4 now. i just wanna knw how the engine performance will be, if any increase in performance is expected or will their be a loss in power...???|||Well, it'll have better throttle response off the line- an AWD vehicle will waste everything else at the strip- That's why WRX's and some Evo's are AWD... On the down side-fairly dramatic decrease in MPG's, and since it was front-wheel-drive before there won't be much of a change in steering, but you will have to worry about the rear end coming loose on those corners more...|||You will gain handling and traction... But it takes engine power to deliver that handling and traction to the new set of wheels. You will NOT end up with an STI or EVO if that's what you're thinking... It takes many more moving parts, suspension and engineering to make a well working awd vehicle, which is why they cost more from the dealership. You will likely end up with an underpowered car that sucks more gas than before, but can drive through snow a little better.
What TOOLS do I need to change brake parts, 1997 Camry LE "V6"?
What size wrenches/sockets do I need to change out the brake pads and disks on my 1997 Camry.
I have disk brakes on all 4 wheels (no drum brakes).
I need to know the sizes of the sockets, especially for removing the rotor. Any other advice is welcome, like advice from you on brands of pads and rotors.
I'd rather do this myself than pay a repair shop $750.|||12mm,14mm,17mm.
Centrix brand is best,ask for OEM application.
I have disk brakes on all 4 wheels (no drum brakes).
I need to know the sizes of the sockets, especially for removing the rotor. Any other advice is welcome, like advice from you on brands of pads and rotors.
I'd rather do this myself than pay a repair shop $750.|||12mm,14mm,17mm.
Centrix brand is best,ask for OEM application.
93 grand cherokee laredo transfer?
it has 2 wheel, 4 wheel part time,4 wheel full time,neutrul,and 4 low,was wondering what type transfer i have|||NP208. Aluminum case, chain driven. Same thing used in the H1 hummer.|||The NP208 was only offered in the full size Cherokees from 1980 to 1987. you are talking about the NP231, also known as NV231. If you look at your shift lever it will most likely say Command Track. The 231 case has been offered since 1988 and has been used on all types of jeeps.
Another option could be the NV242, This case also has 2wd Hi range, full time 4wd, and part time 4wd high and 4 low range. It was in Cherokees and Grand Cherokees as well
Another option could be the NV242, This case also has 2wd Hi range, full time 4wd, and part time 4wd high and 4 low range. It was in Cherokees and Grand Cherokees as well
Can you think of any rear wheel drive 4 cyl under 5 grand?
preferably around maybe 3 grand.
I'm trying to think of a rear wheel drive car that I can get, I was thinking old bmw's from the 90's, which is almost perfect because they're cheap, and decent insurance believe it or not...i didn't believe it at first, but I looked it up. But all of them are atleast 6 cylinders, and I don't want to spend too much on fuel, so I need a 4cyl. I want rear wheel drive because i wanna have a little fun in the parking lots if it snows if you know what I'm saying ;P
Anyways, here's my criteria...
-preferably not a sports car
-rear wheel drive
-four cylinder...fuel efficient
-preferably an import... european or japanese, but preferable japanese because I don't want to pay an arm and a leg for parts if something breaks. but i'm not closed minded to domestic
-from the 90's
-under 5 grand for sure, if possible around 3 grand
if you can't think of any, I guess i'll go with my back up plan...getting a used VW diesel.
thanks!|||there are quite a few cars that will fit the bill. but here are a few that i think will get the job done....
toyota corolla - older ones are rear wheel drive. 4 cyl, and if you find one in standard you can really have fun in those snow covered lots! :)
nissan 240sx - most of them are 6 cyl but if you look you can find 4 cyl.
bmw 3 series - this one you already know. but you should be careful. if this is your 1st car they can be expensive to fix if something goes wrong.
vw scirraco - i know you've probably never heard of it but it's a great car if you can find one.
you're kind or painting yourself into a corner with the 4 cyl rear wheel thing. most rear wheel drive cars are 6 cyl or better because it takes more power to push a car than to pull it. which is why most front wheel drive cars can have smaller engines. a 6 cyl can get great gas milage just like a 4. it's a simple matter of proper tuning. good luck.|||Save your money, the price bracket is a trap because previous owners usually dump their cars when they are close to being serviced.... just drive an old $500 bomb..... it'll do the trick as long as it doesn't over heat or smoke.
I'm trying to think of a rear wheel drive car that I can get, I was thinking old bmw's from the 90's, which is almost perfect because they're cheap, and decent insurance believe it or not...i didn't believe it at first, but I looked it up. But all of them are atleast 6 cylinders, and I don't want to spend too much on fuel, so I need a 4cyl. I want rear wheel drive because i wanna have a little fun in the parking lots if it snows if you know what I'm saying ;P
Anyways, here's my criteria...
-preferably not a sports car
-rear wheel drive
-four cylinder...fuel efficient
-preferably an import... european or japanese, but preferable japanese because I don't want to pay an arm and a leg for parts if something breaks. but i'm not closed minded to domestic
-from the 90's
-under 5 grand for sure, if possible around 3 grand
if you can't think of any, I guess i'll go with my back up plan...getting a used VW diesel.
thanks!|||there are quite a few cars that will fit the bill. but here are a few that i think will get the job done....
toyota corolla - older ones are rear wheel drive. 4 cyl, and if you find one in standard you can really have fun in those snow covered lots! :)
nissan 240sx - most of them are 6 cyl but if you look you can find 4 cyl.
bmw 3 series - this one you already know. but you should be careful. if this is your 1st car they can be expensive to fix if something goes wrong.
vw scirraco - i know you've probably never heard of it but it's a great car if you can find one.
you're kind or painting yourself into a corner with the 4 cyl rear wheel thing. most rear wheel drive cars are 6 cyl or better because it takes more power to push a car than to pull it. which is why most front wheel drive cars can have smaller engines. a 6 cyl can get great gas milage just like a 4. it's a simple matter of proper tuning. good luck.|||Save your money, the price bracket is a trap because previous owners usually dump their cars when they are close to being serviced.... just drive an old $500 bomb..... it'll do the trick as long as it doesn't over heat or smoke.
A wheel 2.30 m in diameter lies in a vertical plane and rotates with a constant angular acceleration of 4.20 r?
4.20 rad/s2. The wheel starts at rest at t = 0, and the radius vector of a certain point P on the rim makes an angle of 57.3掳 with the horizontal at this time. At t = 2.00 s find the following.
(a) the angular speed of the wheel
correct check mark rad/s
(b) the tangential speed and the total acceleration of the point P
wrong check mark
Your answer differs from the correct answer by 10% to 100%. m/s
m/s2
(c) the angular position of the point P
rad
How do you do parts b and c? I thought you have to take the distance formula to find time and then you can find angular velocity. Then I can use the equation v=rw .??? Some help would be greatly appreciated. |||Let r = 2.3 m; alpha = 4.2 rad/sec^2, omega0 = 57.3 deg = 1 rad at time t0 = 0.
a) Presuming w0 = 0 rad/sec, the initial angular velocity at t0 = 0, then w1 = alpha(dt) = 4.2*2 = 8.4 rad/sec when dt = t1 - t0 = 2 sec.
b) At t1 = 2 sec, w1 = 8.4 rad/sec so that v1 = w1*r = 8.4*2.3 = ? the tangential velocity. Total acceleration A^2 = ar^2 + at^2; where ar is the radial acceleration ar = v1^2/r and at is the tangentail acceleration = alpha*r = 4.2*2.3. Thus, A = sqrt((v1^2/r)^2 + (alpha*r)^2) = ? and everything on the RHS is known, you can do the math.
c) d(omega) = omega1 - omega0 which is the angular amount the wheel moves in dt = 2 seconds starting at omega0; so that omega1 = d(omega) + omega0; where omega0 = 1 rad wrt the horizontal at t0 = 0 and d(omega) = 1/2 alpha(dt)^2 = (1/2)*4.2*2^2 = 8.4 rad which is how much the wheel rotates in dt = 2 sec. Therefore, omega1 = 8.4 rad + 1 rad = 9.4 rad, wrt the horizontal. [Note. Recognize that once around is 2 pi ~ 6 rads to get to the starting point at 1 rad. So the point P will be about 2.4 rads beyond the 1 rad position is started at. That results because 6 rads brings it back to 57.3 deg (1 rad) and then it moves on another 2.4 rads beyond the starting point that was at omeg0 = 1 rad.]
The distance formulae are angular distances (i.e., omega) and angular velocities (i.e., w) But they are similar to the linear ones. For example, s = 1/2 at^2 is the linear equation for traveling s distance with average acceleration a in time t and starting with v0 = 0 initial velocity. In angular math talk, that would be omega = 1/2 alpha t^2; where alpha = rad/sec^2 average angular acceleration and starting with w0 = 0 angular velocity.
(a) the angular speed of the wheel
correct check mark rad/s
(b) the tangential speed and the total acceleration of the point P
wrong check mark
Your answer differs from the correct answer by 10% to 100%. m/s
m/s2
(c) the angular position of the point P
rad
How do you do parts b and c? I thought you have to take the distance formula to find time and then you can find angular velocity. Then I can use the equation v=rw .??? Some help would be greatly appreciated. |||Let r = 2.3 m; alpha = 4.2 rad/sec^2, omega0 = 57.3 deg = 1 rad at time t0 = 0.
a) Presuming w0 = 0 rad/sec, the initial angular velocity at t0 = 0, then w1 = alpha(dt) = 4.2*2 = 8.4 rad/sec when dt = t1 - t0 = 2 sec.
b) At t1 = 2 sec, w1 = 8.4 rad/sec so that v1 = w1*r = 8.4*2.3 = ? the tangential velocity. Total acceleration A^2 = ar^2 + at^2; where ar is the radial acceleration ar = v1^2/r and at is the tangentail acceleration = alpha*r = 4.2*2.3. Thus, A = sqrt((v1^2/r)^2 + (alpha*r)^2) = ? and everything on the RHS is known, you can do the math.
c) d(omega) = omega1 - omega0 which is the angular amount the wheel moves in dt = 2 seconds starting at omega0; so that omega1 = d(omega) + omega0; where omega0 = 1 rad wrt the horizontal at t0 = 0 and d(omega) = 1/2 alpha(dt)^2 = (1/2)*4.2*2^2 = 8.4 rad which is how much the wheel rotates in dt = 2 sec. Therefore, omega1 = 8.4 rad + 1 rad = 9.4 rad, wrt the horizontal. [Note. Recognize that once around is 2 pi ~ 6 rads to get to the starting point at 1 rad. So the point P will be about 2.4 rads beyond the 1 rad position is started at. That results because 6 rads brings it back to 57.3 deg (1 rad) and then it moves on another 2.4 rads beyond the starting point that was at omeg0 = 1 rad.]
The distance formulae are angular distances (i.e., omega) and angular velocities (i.e., w) But they are similar to the linear ones. For example, s = 1/2 at^2 is the linear equation for traveling s distance with average acceleration a in time t and starting with v0 = 0 initial velocity. In angular math talk, that would be omega = 1/2 alpha t^2; where alpha = rad/sec^2 average angular acceleration and starting with w0 = 0 angular velocity.
97 jeep grand cherokee,how to shift to 4x4?
I do not have the owners manual and want to make Shure I do not screw it up shifting when I should not.I do not know what type of transmission it has.
I have part time 4 wheel,4 wheel HI %26amp; low.
Thanks for your time.|||My Grand Cherokee is the same as yours. It's constant 4 x 4 but to put it in low range you have to be stationary, then select Neutral. Take a Hold of the Low Range Selector and put it all the way back into the Lo position. You'll hear it go into Detent. Then you can select forward on your main shift as normal.|||Definately be under 5mph, or better, at a complete stop. Bump your transmission into Neutral and shift to 4wd HI. Low is only for crawling.
some Jeep transfer cases are "on the fly" meaning you are supposed to be able to change them while moving (under 55mph some say). I've done this in a Cherokee and in my Wrangler, but if at all possible, slower is better.
If you ever pull the lever and it grinds...put it back down right away!
The only time it ever grinded for me is if I tried to put it in low while still rolling. Going into 4 HI never made it grind at any speed.|||come to a complete stop put ur gear shifter in neutral pull the 4x4 lever back then put in drive and go then reverse those steps to go to 2wd
I have part time 4 wheel,4 wheel HI %26amp; low.
Thanks for your time.|||My Grand Cherokee is the same as yours. It's constant 4 x 4 but to put it in low range you have to be stationary, then select Neutral. Take a Hold of the Low Range Selector and put it all the way back into the Lo position. You'll hear it go into Detent. Then you can select forward on your main shift as normal.|||Definately be under 5mph, or better, at a complete stop. Bump your transmission into Neutral and shift to 4wd HI. Low is only for crawling.
some Jeep transfer cases are "on the fly" meaning you are supposed to be able to change them while moving (under 55mph some say). I've done this in a Cherokee and in my Wrangler, but if at all possible, slower is better.
If you ever pull the lever and it grinds...put it back down right away!
The only time it ever grinded for me is if I tried to put it in low while still rolling. Going into 4 HI never made it grind at any speed.|||come to a complete stop put ur gear shifter in neutral pull the 4x4 lever back then put in drive and go then reverse those steps to go to 2wd
What is the part # for Delco wheel cylinder casting # 1074899, please?
I need to replace the 4 brake cylinders on my 1934 Chevrolet Standard 2-dr Coach which was converted to juice brakes from cable long ago.
First we need to identify the cylinder and then search for them NOS or rebuilt if can't find NOS. I may need more parts to complete this brake job. Thank you, William H|||Check the backing plate for a part number or manufacturer. This will at least give you a direction on car make. I'm not sure, but I think all the auto manufacturers back when used the same company for brake parts. I would take an old one to a parts store and see what they have.
First we need to identify the cylinder and then search for them NOS or rebuilt if can't find NOS. I may need more parts to complete this brake job. Thank you, William H|||Check the backing plate for a part number or manufacturer. This will at least give you a direction on car make. I'm not sure, but I think all the auto manufacturers back when used the same company for brake parts. I would take an old one to a parts store and see what they have.
Can you put a 95 Ford Ranger front axle into a 93 Ford explorer?
the front axle on my 93 ford explorer is broken and i have a 95 ranger that's for parts. there both 4 wheel drive. just want to know if the 95 ranger front axle will fit into the explorer|||i kinda doubt it. the explorer is a bigger vehicle then the ranger. i could be wrong but i think the housing is longer on the explorer which means the axle will be too long. about the only way to know before tearing it down would be go to a junk yard and ask them. they should have a book on interchangeable parts.
2004 ford f-150 4 wheel drive actuator?
i was wondering if someone knows of a website where i can get instructions on installing this piece, i have some mech backround just dont know how involved this part is to replace|||I would go to ebay and buy a Ford service manual dvd it will cost between 10-30 dollars but it has every shop manual made for your truck on a dvd you can view and print the pages great source of info at a low price|||If you don't have a repair manual, you can get it at your library and copy out what you need..
4-wheel drive question...difference?
My jeep has 4WD, but it has 2 options, 4WD Part-time and 4WD Full-time. What's the difference?|||One is part time and one is full time.
Seriously though, the part time setting is like automatic 4WD. When the car senses that it needs 4WD it will automatically shift in. The other setting is full time 4WD.|||4 Wheel drive used most of the time part time good 4 mountains and off road
Seriously though, the part time setting is like automatic 4WD. When the car senses that it needs 4WD it will automatically shift in. The other setting is full time 4WD.|||4 Wheel drive used most of the time part time good 4 mountains and off road
How much would would it cost to restore mitsubishi 3000gt vr-4?
Now I'm buying a 1996 3000gt vr-4 with twin turbo and all wheel drive. I'm buying one with 150,000 miles. I need to know how much it would be to restore or swap the engine and transmission and where to find the parts. I'm buying for around $6,000 and am wiling to spend another $4,000-$5,000. It is a beautiful car and my dream car so please no comments about get another car. |||a new engine would be around 1-2k install around 1k tranny 800 look on craiglist or ebay motors. gl, the vr-4 is pretty amazing.|||With $5,000? Maybe just the motor? which is around $3,000 for rebuilts and the tranny will run another $1,500. And the rest of the money for any other sort of problems. You have enough money to get a running at least but not enough to make it "look" the best.
2002 Trailblazer Front Wheels Not Engaging for 4 Wheel Drive?
Hi all, I think I know the problem with this, but I'd be interested in hearing your opinions. I've talked to people on Chevy forums as well as read some of the other answers, and it's helped narrow it down, but there are still some things that puzzle me, so here goes:
I've noticed in icy conditions that my front wheels don't engage for 4wd. The electronic control seems to be working fine... the light tells me it's in 2HI, 4HI, 4LO, etc. with no problems. No flashing lights, no prolonged time period to get there, etc.
Everyone seems to think it's the actuator, but if the actuator was bad, wouldn't the lights be flashing?
It sounds like the transfer case itself is working when I shift into the different options (2H, 4H, 4L) but no power to the front wheels. I'd hate to spend $60 on a part that isn't bad and still have the problem. Another friend said it could be a vacuum issue, but he didn't know unless he got under there and checked it out.
Any thoughts???|||Are you sure the front wheels arn't engaging?? Im sure you can look out and see the left front wheel but the right front could be turning as the front differential is not positive trac. If the actuator wasn't working correctly, then you would have some type of indication of this through either the driver information center or the lights on the switch itself. If your sure that neither wheel is engaging, then you probably have a broken shift fork which is the lever that the actuator actually moves, this would occur without the vehicle actually knowing there is a problem. And FYI, a standard diagnostic charge at a local gm dealer would be less than the price of the actuator and then you would have a definate answer. Good luck.
I've noticed in icy conditions that my front wheels don't engage for 4wd. The electronic control seems to be working fine... the light tells me it's in 2HI, 4HI, 4LO, etc. with no problems. No flashing lights, no prolonged time period to get there, etc.
Everyone seems to think it's the actuator, but if the actuator was bad, wouldn't the lights be flashing?
It sounds like the transfer case itself is working when I shift into the different options (2H, 4H, 4L) but no power to the front wheels. I'd hate to spend $60 on a part that isn't bad and still have the problem. Another friend said it could be a vacuum issue, but he didn't know unless he got under there and checked it out.
Any thoughts???|||Are you sure the front wheels arn't engaging?? Im sure you can look out and see the left front wheel but the right front could be turning as the front differential is not positive trac. If the actuator wasn't working correctly, then you would have some type of indication of this through either the driver information center or the lights on the switch itself. If your sure that neither wheel is engaging, then you probably have a broken shift fork which is the lever that the actuator actually moves, this would occur without the vehicle actually knowing there is a problem. And FYI, a standard diagnostic charge at a local gm dealer would be less than the price of the actuator and then you would have a definate answer. Good luck.
I need to order a "ECM" for a 2001 Ford Expedition, not 4-Wheel drive, with the smaller V8. Please help!?
Hello all!
The mechanic is getting a reading that one of the Cylinders is showing that one of the cylinders is not firing even though we replaced all the plugs, coil packs, changed the fuel filter, etc.
The Answers that the mechanic is getting is pointing towards the ECM so I need to find a part number and price.
Here is one of the websites I have found that mention an ECM, but I'm not sure if I am looking at the right category.
http://catalog.oehq.com/ShopByVehicle.ep鈥?/a>|||ECM is rarely problem,be very sure,for this model year it will need to match with the ignition key transponder to start the engine.If got to replace it,then:
http://www.ourecms.com/
Good luck|||ECM's are expensive and you will need to get a number off the old unit to ensure the correct one is bought. I worked at a ford dealership in the parts dept. before. I recall there needing some research. May need to get a calibration number as well. And make sure that all other testing has been done. Some places (mostly all) will not accept if returned.
Good luck|||go to a junk yard.
The mechanic is getting a reading that one of the Cylinders is showing that one of the cylinders is not firing even though we replaced all the plugs, coil packs, changed the fuel filter, etc.
The Answers that the mechanic is getting is pointing towards the ECM so I need to find a part number and price.
Here is one of the websites I have found that mention an ECM, but I'm not sure if I am looking at the right category.
http://catalog.oehq.com/ShopByVehicle.ep鈥?/a>|||ECM is rarely problem,be very sure,for this model year it will need to match with the ignition key transponder to start the engine.If got to replace it,then:
http://www.ourecms.com/
Good luck|||ECM's are expensive and you will need to get a number off the old unit to ensure the correct one is bought. I worked at a ford dealership in the parts dept. before. I recall there needing some research. May need to get a calibration number as well. And make sure that all other testing has been done. Some places (mostly all) will not accept if returned.
Good luck|||go to a junk yard.
1992 chevy camero z28,5.0 liter, w/4 wheel disc brake system?
looking for a part of the brake system called the brake equalizer it connects the three brake cables to #1 emergency cable. #2. and to rear disc brake cables. been to alot of sits trying to fine this part but no luck. if anyone can offer help in locating this part it would very much helpfull thankyou in advance|||Because of the age of this vehicle you will have the best luck at a used parts (auto wrecker) source. It may be a phone search and not a web search as this part is very small and probably does not have a great deal of interest to most.
How can I get my steering wheel to look like this?
Ok, I own a 2008 V6 mustang, and my steering wheel looks like this :
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://l.yimg.com/dv/izp/ford_mustang_v6_convertible_2010_interior_steeringwheel.jpg%26amp;imgrefurl=http://mustangforums.com/forum/2005-2011-mustangs/579545-steering-wheel-problems.html%26amp;usg=__afOKBRnEywBp8f1uLicyFCPARzA=%26amp;h=960%26amp;w=1280%26amp;sz=737%26amp;hl=en%26amp;start=0%26amp;zoom=1%26amp;tbnid=3vXTVNO9BlfZSM:%26amp;tbnh=164%26amp;tbnw=219%26amp;ei=oK5MTffTFIOBlAeM4NAJ%26amp;prev=/images%3Fq%3DV6%2BMustang%2Bsteering%2Bwheel%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26rlz%3D1R2TSHB_enUS364%26biw%3D1259%26bih%3D623%26tbs%3Disch:1%26amp;um=1%26amp;itbs=1%26amp;iact=hc%26amp;vpx=377%26amp;vpy=334%26amp;dur=631%26amp;hovh=194%26amp;hovw=259%26amp;tx=145%26amp;ty=158%26amp;oei=kK5MTb6yHMqtgQec9pjqDw%26amp;esq=4%26amp;page=1%26amp;ndsp=15%26amp;ved=1t:429,r:11,s:0
So how can I get my wheel to look like this
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://image.mustangmonthly.com/f/16321709%2Bw750%2Bst0/mump_0403_11_z%2B2005_ford_mustang_gt%2Bsteering_wheel.jpg%26amp;imgrefurl=http://www.mustangmonthly.com/featuredvehicles/mump_0403_2005_ford_mustang_gt/photo_11.html%26amp;usg=__ksW9IqjT7iGklNrQ_OT1psqrzRc=%26amp;h=480%26amp;w=640%26amp;sz=55%26amp;hl=en%26amp;start=0%26amp;zoom=1%26amp;tbnid=BHxIFVaSiGSTnM:%26amp;tbnh=160%26amp;tbnw=222%26amp;ei=N65MTfvEOsf1gAf6rJjsDw%26amp;prev=/images%3Fq%3DGT%2BMustang%2Bsteering%2Bwheel%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26rlz%3D1R2TSHB_enUS364%26biw%3D1276%26bih%3D623%26tbs%3Disch:1%26amp;um=1%26amp;itbs=1%26amp;iact=hc%26amp;vpx=148%26amp;vpy=92%26amp;dur=306%26amp;hovh=194%26amp;hovw=259%26amp;tx=199%26amp;ty=66%26amp;oei=N65MTfvEOsf1gAf6rJjsDw%26amp;esq=1%26amp;page=1%26amp;ndsp=15%26amp;ved=1t:429,r:0,s:0
How do I get the aluminum parts on the wheel, instead of having that flexible ruber crap.|||Both links work.
You'll have to buy a new steering wheel. Talk to a Ford dealer about pricing.|||You need to fix the url to the second picture, it isn't working right, but just by looking at it, looks like it is a different steering wheel.
**Main point of my answer was to let you know to fix the link to second picture, don't know much about cars.
UPDATE:
Yup, you can buy them. Here is a link where they sell them:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/mustang-st鈥?/a>
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://l.yimg.com/dv/izp/ford_mustang_v6_convertible_2010_interior_steeringwheel.jpg%26amp;imgrefurl=http://mustangforums.com/forum/2005-2011-mustangs/579545-steering-wheel-problems.html%26amp;usg=__afOKBRnEywBp8f1uLicyFCPARzA=%26amp;h=960%26amp;w=1280%26amp;sz=737%26amp;hl=en%26amp;start=0%26amp;zoom=1%26amp;tbnid=3vXTVNO9BlfZSM:%26amp;tbnh=164%26amp;tbnw=219%26amp;ei=oK5MTffTFIOBlAeM4NAJ%26amp;prev=/images%3Fq%3DV6%2BMustang%2Bsteering%2Bwheel%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26rlz%3D1R2TSHB_enUS364%26biw%3D1259%26bih%3D623%26tbs%3Disch:1%26amp;um=1%26amp;itbs=1%26amp;iact=hc%26amp;vpx=377%26amp;vpy=334%26amp;dur=631%26amp;hovh=194%26amp;hovw=259%26amp;tx=145%26amp;ty=158%26amp;oei=kK5MTb6yHMqtgQec9pjqDw%26amp;esq=4%26amp;page=1%26amp;ndsp=15%26amp;ved=1t:429,r:11,s:0
So how can I get my wheel to look like this
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://image.mustangmonthly.com/f/16321709%2Bw750%2Bst0/mump_0403_11_z%2B2005_ford_mustang_gt%2Bsteering_wheel.jpg%26amp;imgrefurl=http://www.mustangmonthly.com/featuredvehicles/mump_0403_2005_ford_mustang_gt/photo_11.html%26amp;usg=__ksW9IqjT7iGklNrQ_OT1psqrzRc=%26amp;h=480%26amp;w=640%26amp;sz=55%26amp;hl=en%26amp;start=0%26amp;zoom=1%26amp;tbnid=BHxIFVaSiGSTnM:%26amp;tbnh=160%26amp;tbnw=222%26amp;ei=N65MTfvEOsf1gAf6rJjsDw%26amp;prev=/images%3Fq%3DGT%2BMustang%2Bsteering%2Bwheel%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26rlz%3D1R2TSHB_enUS364%26biw%3D1276%26bih%3D623%26tbs%3Disch:1%26amp;um=1%26amp;itbs=1%26amp;iact=hc%26amp;vpx=148%26amp;vpy=92%26amp;dur=306%26amp;hovh=194%26amp;hovw=259%26amp;tx=199%26amp;ty=66%26amp;oei=N65MTfvEOsf1gAf6rJjsDw%26amp;esq=1%26amp;page=1%26amp;ndsp=15%26amp;ved=1t:429,r:0,s:0
How do I get the aluminum parts on the wheel, instead of having that flexible ruber crap.|||Both links work.
You'll have to buy a new steering wheel. Talk to a Ford dealer about pricing.|||You need to fix the url to the second picture, it isn't working right, but just by looking at it, looks like it is a different steering wheel.
**Main point of my answer was to let you know to fix the link to second picture, don't know much about cars.
UPDATE:
Yup, you can buy them. Here is a link where they sell them:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/mustang-st鈥?/a>
Is there a 1981 and 1982 Ford Granada Parts Place?
I'm searching for a group in the U.S.A. that has Ford Granada Body
Parts for the header panel assembly, head lamp bezels, hood ornaments
tail light assemblies for left and right, as well as a steering wheel, for a
4 door Sedan, 3.3 Liter engine. Fox Foundation style Body.|||Yes your car is a Fox body, but the Granada/Monarch were not very popular so many of them ended up in the junk yards %26amp; got crushed with the rise in scrap prices, especially the 81/82 models. Now they are gaining popularity with hot rodders because some of the performance parts for the Mustang can swap over and turn these ugly ducklings into sweet sleepers. Good luck %26amp; happy motoring.|||a lot of people part them out for their brakes and steering, then smash the rest..check on ebay for someone parting one out and email them with your request..|||your car is only based on the fox platform most fox chassis parts will NOT Fit your car at all, for body parts scour the junkyards
Parts for the header panel assembly, head lamp bezels, hood ornaments
tail light assemblies for left and right, as well as a steering wheel, for a
4 door Sedan, 3.3 Liter engine. Fox Foundation style Body.|||Yes your car is a Fox body, but the Granada/Monarch were not very popular so many of them ended up in the junk yards %26amp; got crushed with the rise in scrap prices, especially the 81/82 models. Now they are gaining popularity with hot rodders because some of the performance parts for the Mustang can swap over and turn these ugly ducklings into sweet sleepers. Good luck %26amp; happy motoring.|||a lot of people part them out for their brakes and steering, then smash the rest..check on ebay for someone parting one out and email them with your request..|||your car is only based on the fox platform most fox chassis parts will NOT Fit your car at all, for body parts scour the junkyards
Where can I find an adapter to use cut off wheels on my 4.5" angle grinder?
I have a 4.5" right angle grinder with a 5/8" arbor. I have recently lost my adapter to use the flat cut off disks. This adapter is a domed washer thing that compensates for the flat disk, whereas the standard grinding wheel has a dome on top. I am having NO LUCK finding a replacement part. The manufacturer does not have one. If you know what I am talking about please help.|||they are called arbor adapters.
can find them in places like northerntool, and many of the big hardware stores.|||WWW.HARBORFREIGHTTOOLS.COM|||I just stack some five eighths washers...make sure they are centered for balance. I didn't know I was missing a part.|||contact Harber Freight and purchase a second angle grinder, on sale the price is $9.99
can find them in places like northerntool, and many of the big hardware stores.|||WWW.HARBORFREIGHTTOOLS.COM|||I just stack some five eighths washers...make sure they are centered for balance. I didn't know I was missing a part.|||contact Harber Freight and purchase a second angle grinder, on sale the price is $9.99
Dakota 4 wheel not working?
I'm a single mom, HELP! 2002 Crew cab 5.9 Dakota switch goes back to 2x2 after blinking. I can't afford to bring it to the dealer to fix. All of the fuses are fine. What could it be and where is the part located to be replaced.|||its the front actuator that's causing that to happen its loosing vacuum ,its located on the right side of the front differential on that one and you can test it by using a vacuum pump on it,its best when they start to do that just to replace it, they cost about 60 bucks to replace,and that should restore it back to working good again,good luck.|||Sound to me like the switch could be bad.|||Either the switch or the actuator. The actuator is more common. These are most often electrically or vacuum operated and located on the top of the transfer case. If it is electric, a volt meter should help you decide wether you need a switch or actuator.
Take care.|||Will need to be hooked up to a scan tool to find codes in the transfer case control module. Most common part to fail is the control module itself but it is $400 for the part so it should be properly diagnosed first.|||FixItMom,
The response by Dodge Man is correct. I had the same thing happen on a different make. $50 (or pretty close to it) part, and a simple DIY replacement!
Take care.|||Will need to be hooked up to a scan tool to find codes in the transfer case control module. Most common part to fail is the control module itself but it is $400 for the part so it should be properly diagnosed first.|||FixItMom,
The response by Dodge Man is correct. I had the same thing happen on a different make. $50 (or pretty close to it) part, and a simple DIY replacement!
2009 Kia Spectra EX has extreme vibration in steering wheel from ~70mph to ~100mph?
The car has gotten new tires since the problem started, as well as tire rotation, 4-wheel alignment and all 4 wheels have been balanced. The camber has also been checked and adjusted to spec on all 4 wheels. The strange part is the vibration is more in the rear than the front from inside the car, though the steering wheel starts shaking like it would on a car with warped rotors braking hard. Google has failed me on finding an answer, hopefully somebody here can take a stab at it.
At 100mph the shaking disappears completely. The "sweet" spot is 75mph.|||Yeah, it's called 'high speed wobbles", motorcycles get it too, It starts around 73 and by 100 its completely gone too.
At 100mph the shaking disappears completely. The "sweet" spot is 75mph.|||Yeah, it's called 'high speed wobbles", motorcycles get it too, It starts around 73 and by 100 its completely gone too.
Xbox 360 - Call Of Duty 4. Saving Cpt Macmillan, behind the ferris wheel. ?
Right ok I managed to do the first part of this one but still stuck on about 5000m until the helicopter comes to rescue us from behind the ferris wheel can anybody tell me where I have to hide or what I got to do to save Macmillan from this. Ive been on the same part for over 2 and a half months if that and still cant save us.
Thanks|||The key things are to remember that Mac will not die and he does a lot of killing for you, and that the enemies will keep coming for ever to SURVIVAL is the goal not wiping them out.
Set Macmillan down in the yellow circle to the side of the ferris wheel. He gives you his claymores and your job is to set these up in good places.
One idea is to set them up behind the cars so that enemies seeking cover will die. Another choice would be to set all of them along a line so that you know some will at least be used. Either way, set them up near the grass, and don't set too many close to the wheel.
Then you need to pick a sniping point. I would think either near his spot, or perhaps on the ferris wheel. But I seriously recommend a place near him.
*NOTE: A cheap trick is to find a booth to the northeast of MacMillan's spot. What you can do here is fight off the enemies as usual, using the booth itself as cover. You can go prone in the corner adjacent to the doorway and under the table. This spot will keep you from any grenade damage, and you can guard the doorway, but no one should bother you. The only trouble is running to Mac when it's time.*
The first wave is easy enough, all of the bad guys come from the pool area. Try to get two in a row, and try to get them before they hit your bombs. If you start seeing too many go for the sides, always be ready to whip out the other rifle and start blasting away. If you take a lot of damage, run behind the ridge and go prone, or get to cover if you're somewhere else.
*NOTE: To the southeast is a doorway that is usually shut. An intel is behind this door, so fight your way to the northeast corner by the pool and fence to choke off that enemy spawn point. Then you can go back to find the door is now open to let more guys through. The intel is on the ground.
This is an advanced tip here, but staying at either the northeast or in this doorway will be excellent places to wait out the assault. Much easier than the booth or any other location. Trust me.*
But that was too easy. Now helis will come in with lots of guys, and more will keep coming from the pool area. There's little solid strategy to this part, you just have to survive. Honestly, don't worry about getting too many kills, he will do a lot of shooting. All you should do is start chucking all your grenade types as your mines get used up. Then become more mobile and protect your flanks with your rifle, because they will get to your sides. Toss back grenades if you can, but just back off if you must.
Mix between sniping and shooting as well, mainly because so many will get close. Just survive, that's the best advice.
After what seems like forever, the bird lands in the parking lot. Run to Mac, pick him up, and hoof it to the back of the chopper. Run inside and you're done. |||The most important thing in succeeding in this mission would be to know how to switch targets quickly using the triggers.
Using this technique i have completed it on hardened/veteran -
Put MacMillan down and plant your claymores around the cars and around the ferris wheel, any gaps the enemies will run through, the claymores will blow up the cars for increased damage.
Use the sniper for the first wave, picking them off at a distance.
When alot more arrive you should run behind the bumper cars, near that white gate, letting them come to you, pick them off with the trigger switching. MacMillan will be fine as he cannot die in this mission, so dont worry about him.
By running behind the bumper cars you avoid being directly shot and mainly you can take out the enemies fairly quickly and efficiently.
Throw grenades at groups of enemies as they are alot harder to take down. Continue the strategy until the helicopter arrives.
Once it has arrived, shoot any enemies near Mac Millan, i would advise you wait for the soldiers to get out of the helicopter until you pick him up as they will provide cover.
Pick up Mac Millan and just leg it inside the helicopter.|||There is two place's to set up. One is a gap near the drop were you came in the shoud be two or three trees in it. And also a set of double doors were enemy's come out of the first time your there.
You should ditch the sniper for a RPD light machine gun and have a AK in chase you reload when a guy or dog is coming you can wholed them off there until the chopper is 1500m out it will start to come in alot quicker you should start move out then back to macmillan.
The other is more difficult but closer to macmillan. Set up behind the Bumper cars well protected by mines and have C4 placed about the area and have the sniper for long range kills and a RPD for close range.
Note that the 4 marines will draw alot of fire but not all of it when the chopper landsand that when your carrying Macmillan you can take about 10times more damage and also machillan is invincible and if you go to him and hide from 2500m to the choppper arrives you should live long enough to pick him up as long as you push ed back the enemys a good bit.|||I found it easiest to set down Macmillan right where the chopper comes to pick you guys up. Then go on the platform of the ferris wheel. Place all of your claymores on the stairs behind you. That way, the only way enemy soldiers can get to your position will be to take the stairs right in front of you. Then go into the prone position in the middle of the platform and start picking off enemies as they enter your view. If anyone does get to the ferris wheel, then they will either go to the rear stairs and die by a claymore or run to the front stairs and as soon as you can see them, they will stand still. Every time I've done this they've run into my scope while I was trying to snipe people on the far end of the area.|||Ok, the best way is; to do it once but keep in mind where most enemys come from... on your next play through plant mines and keep them as far as you can by picking them off with your sniper. then by about 2500/2000m they'll be close enough for you to switch to your other gun. throw grenades every once in a while to. they come from 1 place which is the same place u enter the area from, so plant a few mines there. i usualy sit by the bumper cars, but if you sit here you need to watch your right aswell as they tend to go round the building and try flank you. just be careful though, watch your health and try keep them as far as you can. |||When you arrive at the area. do not put Mc million down in the correct spot place him anywhere. use the rest of your c4 and claymore. i suggest placing them next to cars along the fence and anywhere random. pick mc million back up and place him in the correct spot on the hill.
By this moment he will give all of his claymore's and C4, so place them randomly or where ever, again i suggest the fence line adn cars. quickly run over to where the big buildings are. when you place him down look back to where u have come from and go north east into the far right alleyway between the 2 buildings. on the left of the alleyway will be a little corner crouch there and do nothing until the plane starts to arrive. Mc millin will kill alot of the people and your 24 clamours :) will do alot aswell.
Before the plane is about to arrive look out towards the ferries wheel and pick off any easy people. if your hit once quickly go back into the corner for saftety. once the helicopter lands, blow your c4 and sprint out behind the helicopter around the ferries...if low on health prone and wait. sprint to Mc million pick him up.
NOTE: When u hold Mc million you have 5x health :). run back behind the ferries, behind the helicopter then run into it. once your in you cant get hurt. i suggest at this point do a rappid fire and throw all your grenades :).
happy killing.|||Ok this plan worked for me.
Firstly where you put the Cpt down crouch or lie down next to him or just behind him and ever few seconds pop up and take out some guys. Plus the cpt will clear alot out then after half way of the heli-copter coming get up and run to the right where the bumpers are at and hide behind a little hit there and clear more of the enemies. Then when the heli-copter is near run back to the Cpt and crouch behind him again till the heli-copter arrives.
Hope this helps|||
the best thing is tht go to the right side of the ferris wheel u will see a deck, find a place there where u can see most of the area then prone there dont stay there for tht long then start moving around and kill them
when the chopper come there are total of three u can kill all the poeple in 2 of the chopper the third 1 u cant wht u do is then they rope down just shoot them a hit will be engough so dont try getting a head shot where ever they get hit will be enough
then near then end when your chopper say will nearly there (cant remember want it really says) then ditch the sniper then pick a assulat rifle then that gun will lead u to the end
|||UM If you wanna quick and easy way:
Put him down in the right spot. Go plant all your C4 and claymores around where the chopper lands and hide around one of the buildings or the hut. The just wait until the chopper lands blow up your perimeter mines pick him up go to chopper.
Check this vid this is onw way to do it:
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=aa-yzTXoin鈥?/a>
Good Luck|||plant claymores in a circle round you and just keep killing soldiers and if they get to close, the mines will blow up and you will no they are there + they will get blown tobits.
other option is cheat :P |||Its hard but you need to set up your charges in a way to protect your self as you set up behind the bumper cart ring.|||You just gotta keep killing enemies ... Keep them off of your back long enough to escape to the helicopter. I know this mission is difficult but keep trying... |||Just keep shooting the enemies, what i do mis attak them at the spawn point (the buildings on the right). There's also an intel in one of them.|||Alright. I remember this level on Veteran, and I hated it. What i did was cheat a *tiny* bit. Before the cutscene kicks in, put the Cpt down and plant all your C4 in the field you're in, and put a few claymores here and there.
Pick him back up, and he refills your explosives once you set him behind the ferris wheel. Plant some C4 on cars, and more around the parking lot. Plant claymores around the bumper car platform, generally in a circle.
If you havent already, try and get an AK47 earlier in the level. Start sniping, and stay behind the platform. The claymores will alert you when enemies are near. Then you can switch to your AK and clean up anything that gets close. If they throw grenades, throw as many back as possible since they wont be cooked.
Also, try and shoot troops off the ropes of the helicopters. Just keep your head down, and make every shot count. Believe me, waiting for the chopper is the easy part.
Once the chopper gets there, I know you'll be anxious to get on it, but DO NOT RUSH. If you die, you go all the way back to when the second fleet of choppers arrives. Wait for the soliders on the chopper to set up a perimeter, then switch to your AK. Pop off anyone that's visible, and wait until its relatively safe to get on the chopper. I threw all the grenades i had left in random places, and used the explosions as cover.
All in all, patience helps out a lot, with a bit of foward planning. It might take a try or 2, but you'll get it.
Thanks|||The key things are to remember that Mac will not die and he does a lot of killing for you, and that the enemies will keep coming for ever to SURVIVAL is the goal not wiping them out.
Set Macmillan down in the yellow circle to the side of the ferris wheel. He gives you his claymores and your job is to set these up in good places.
One idea is to set them up behind the cars so that enemies seeking cover will die. Another choice would be to set all of them along a line so that you know some will at least be used. Either way, set them up near the grass, and don't set too many close to the wheel.
Then you need to pick a sniping point. I would think either near his spot, or perhaps on the ferris wheel. But I seriously recommend a place near him.
*NOTE: A cheap trick is to find a booth to the northeast of MacMillan's spot. What you can do here is fight off the enemies as usual, using the booth itself as cover. You can go prone in the corner adjacent to the doorway and under the table. This spot will keep you from any grenade damage, and you can guard the doorway, but no one should bother you. The only trouble is running to Mac when it's time.*
The first wave is easy enough, all of the bad guys come from the pool area. Try to get two in a row, and try to get them before they hit your bombs. If you start seeing too many go for the sides, always be ready to whip out the other rifle and start blasting away. If you take a lot of damage, run behind the ridge and go prone, or get to cover if you're somewhere else.
*NOTE: To the southeast is a doorway that is usually shut. An intel is behind this door, so fight your way to the northeast corner by the pool and fence to choke off that enemy spawn point. Then you can go back to find the door is now open to let more guys through. The intel is on the ground.
This is an advanced tip here, but staying at either the northeast or in this doorway will be excellent places to wait out the assault. Much easier than the booth or any other location. Trust me.*
But that was too easy. Now helis will come in with lots of guys, and more will keep coming from the pool area. There's little solid strategy to this part, you just have to survive. Honestly, don't worry about getting too many kills, he will do a lot of shooting. All you should do is start chucking all your grenade types as your mines get used up. Then become more mobile and protect your flanks with your rifle, because they will get to your sides. Toss back grenades if you can, but just back off if you must.
Mix between sniping and shooting as well, mainly because so many will get close. Just survive, that's the best advice.
After what seems like forever, the bird lands in the parking lot. Run to Mac, pick him up, and hoof it to the back of the chopper. Run inside and you're done. |||The most important thing in succeeding in this mission would be to know how to switch targets quickly using the triggers.
Using this technique i have completed it on hardened/veteran -
Put MacMillan down and plant your claymores around the cars and around the ferris wheel, any gaps the enemies will run through, the claymores will blow up the cars for increased damage.
Use the sniper for the first wave, picking them off at a distance.
When alot more arrive you should run behind the bumper cars, near that white gate, letting them come to you, pick them off with the trigger switching. MacMillan will be fine as he cannot die in this mission, so dont worry about him.
By running behind the bumper cars you avoid being directly shot and mainly you can take out the enemies fairly quickly and efficiently.
Throw grenades at groups of enemies as they are alot harder to take down. Continue the strategy until the helicopter arrives.
Once it has arrived, shoot any enemies near Mac Millan, i would advise you wait for the soldiers to get out of the helicopter until you pick him up as they will provide cover.
Pick up Mac Millan and just leg it inside the helicopter.|||There is two place's to set up. One is a gap near the drop were you came in the shoud be two or three trees in it. And also a set of double doors were enemy's come out of the first time your there.
You should ditch the sniper for a RPD light machine gun and have a AK in chase you reload when a guy or dog is coming you can wholed them off there until the chopper is 1500m out it will start to come in alot quicker you should start move out then back to macmillan.
The other is more difficult but closer to macmillan. Set up behind the Bumper cars well protected by mines and have C4 placed about the area and have the sniper for long range kills and a RPD for close range.
Note that the 4 marines will draw alot of fire but not all of it when the chopper landsand that when your carrying Macmillan you can take about 10times more damage and also machillan is invincible and if you go to him and hide from 2500m to the choppper arrives you should live long enough to pick him up as long as you push ed back the enemys a good bit.|||I found it easiest to set down Macmillan right where the chopper comes to pick you guys up. Then go on the platform of the ferris wheel. Place all of your claymores on the stairs behind you. That way, the only way enemy soldiers can get to your position will be to take the stairs right in front of you. Then go into the prone position in the middle of the platform and start picking off enemies as they enter your view. If anyone does get to the ferris wheel, then they will either go to the rear stairs and die by a claymore or run to the front stairs and as soon as you can see them, they will stand still. Every time I've done this they've run into my scope while I was trying to snipe people on the far end of the area.|||Ok, the best way is; to do it once but keep in mind where most enemys come from... on your next play through plant mines and keep them as far as you can by picking them off with your sniper. then by about 2500/2000m they'll be close enough for you to switch to your other gun. throw grenades every once in a while to. they come from 1 place which is the same place u enter the area from, so plant a few mines there. i usualy sit by the bumper cars, but if you sit here you need to watch your right aswell as they tend to go round the building and try flank you. just be careful though, watch your health and try keep them as far as you can. |||When you arrive at the area. do not put Mc million down in the correct spot place him anywhere. use the rest of your c4 and claymore. i suggest placing them next to cars along the fence and anywhere random. pick mc million back up and place him in the correct spot on the hill.
By this moment he will give all of his claymore's and C4, so place them randomly or where ever, again i suggest the fence line adn cars. quickly run over to where the big buildings are. when you place him down look back to where u have come from and go north east into the far right alleyway between the 2 buildings. on the left of the alleyway will be a little corner crouch there and do nothing until the plane starts to arrive. Mc millin will kill alot of the people and your 24 clamours :) will do alot aswell.
Before the plane is about to arrive look out towards the ferries wheel and pick off any easy people. if your hit once quickly go back into the corner for saftety. once the helicopter lands, blow your c4 and sprint out behind the helicopter around the ferries...if low on health prone and wait. sprint to Mc million pick him up.
NOTE: When u hold Mc million you have 5x health :). run back behind the ferries, behind the helicopter then run into it. once your in you cant get hurt. i suggest at this point do a rappid fire and throw all your grenades :).
happy killing.|||Ok this plan worked for me.
Firstly where you put the Cpt down crouch or lie down next to him or just behind him and ever few seconds pop up and take out some guys. Plus the cpt will clear alot out then after half way of the heli-copter coming get up and run to the right where the bumpers are at and hide behind a little hit there and clear more of the enemies. Then when the heli-copter is near run back to the Cpt and crouch behind him again till the heli-copter arrives.
Hope this helps|||
the best thing is tht go to the right side of the ferris wheel u will see a deck, find a place there where u can see most of the area then prone there dont stay there for tht long then start moving around and kill them
when the chopper come there are total of three u can kill all the poeple in 2 of the chopper the third 1 u cant wht u do is then they rope down just shoot them a hit will be engough so dont try getting a head shot where ever they get hit will be enough
then near then end when your chopper say will nearly there (cant remember want it really says) then ditch the sniper then pick a assulat rifle then that gun will lead u to the end
|||UM If you wanna quick and easy way:
Put him down in the right spot. Go plant all your C4 and claymores around where the chopper lands and hide around one of the buildings or the hut. The just wait until the chopper lands blow up your perimeter mines pick him up go to chopper.
Check this vid this is onw way to do it:
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=aa-yzTXoin鈥?/a>
Good Luck|||plant claymores in a circle round you and just keep killing soldiers and if they get to close, the mines will blow up and you will no they are there + they will get blown tobits.
other option is cheat :P |||Its hard but you need to set up your charges in a way to protect your self as you set up behind the bumper cart ring.|||You just gotta keep killing enemies ... Keep them off of your back long enough to escape to the helicopter. I know this mission is difficult but keep trying... |||Just keep shooting the enemies, what i do mis attak them at the spawn point (the buildings on the right). There's also an intel in one of them.|||Alright. I remember this level on Veteran, and I hated it. What i did was cheat a *tiny* bit. Before the cutscene kicks in, put the Cpt down and plant all your C4 in the field you're in, and put a few claymores here and there.
Pick him back up, and he refills your explosives once you set him behind the ferris wheel. Plant some C4 on cars, and more around the parking lot. Plant claymores around the bumper car platform, generally in a circle.
If you havent already, try and get an AK47 earlier in the level. Start sniping, and stay behind the platform. The claymores will alert you when enemies are near. Then you can switch to your AK and clean up anything that gets close. If they throw grenades, throw as many back as possible since they wont be cooked.
Also, try and shoot troops off the ropes of the helicopters. Just keep your head down, and make every shot count. Believe me, waiting for the chopper is the easy part.
Once the chopper gets there, I know you'll be anxious to get on it, but DO NOT RUSH. If you die, you go all the way back to when the second fleet of choppers arrives. Wait for the soliders on the chopper to set up a perimeter, then switch to your AK. Pop off anyone that's visible, and wait until its relatively safe to get on the chopper. I threw all the grenades i had left in random places, and used the explosions as cover.
All in all, patience helps out a lot, with a bit of foward planning. It might take a try or 2, but you'll get it.
In Four Wheel Drive Vehicles...What is the difference in 4lo,4hi and partime 4 wheel Drive?
1999 Dodge Dakota 5.2V8 4x4 with optional part time/full time transfer case.|||4lo is a real low gear ratio , you use it when you are out ,doing serious 4 digging , 4 high is a little bit quicker of a 4 wheel drive alot of people like to put them in 4 high for slick roads and boogie down the hiway ,, bad mistake ,4 wheel drives flip easy on slick roads , your part time is when you dont have it locked in|||4wd lo runs thru a gear reduction in ur transfer case truring 5 gear essintially into 2nd gear whilst 4wd hi runs at the original gear ratios as 2wd...part time 4wd allows the transfer case to switch back and forth from front wheel drive to rear wheel drive in order to stop binding in the transfer case and for gas mileage purposes...now go mud slingin and for god sakes put it in 4wd, not part time...ever
89 four runner four wheel drive problem?
89 4runner 4 wheel drive shift to low gear but front wheels not locking in..to be honest im not sure if they were before i replaced rotors and pads or not it was a bear removing the hub parts hope i put them back right! Is their a way to fix this problem or what is a common problem with this?|||I had a 87 sr 22 engine bad bad A-truck all my friends had dodge 95 ford an chevy with 45's tire super swappers on when they got stuck who did they call US... What is wrong with your tuck is its not appreciably by others. You may have pushed the butten that says u start without the clucht it may need replacing. The lock feature when in neutralize has to be put in gear the lock tires seat in seat an press that butten self start giver hell
Tire rod and wheel alignment in a ford taurus?
ok ! our wheel has always slightly to the right and the right passenger tire was going flat and whatever else...we had it replaced today along with a tire balance on all 4 wheels...now our wheel turns to the left instead of the right like it use to! Also the Driver outer tire rod they said was loose....and our wheel shakes!!!! what is the problem and about how much am i looking at just to get a tire rod put in just the labor cuz i know how much the part cost!!!!|||if you just replaced 1 tire, its going to pull because it has more tread than the others. a bad tierod end will also throw your car out of alignment. a outer tie rod end just takes minutes to replace. 20 dollars tops on labor, you will need a alignment which can cost over 50|||should be about a half hour in labor. labor prices vary from place to place. It may be more labor on a european vehicle.|||the problem is your outer tie rod is about to break,you need to get into shop,the cost on laber depends on the shop you go to,labor around my house is around $60.00 per hour,should be less than hour laber to change out tie rod end,and the shaking in your steering wheel is from the loose tierod end.and when you change the rod end you will also need to get the front end realigned...|||1/2 - 1 hr. should easily do it. You'd better consider a four wheel alignment after the outer tie-rod end is replaced. Different brands are not all the same threaded length.
Even though you return the jam nut to the original location against the new tie-rod end it (new tie-rod end) may not index properly. The tapered threaded end may not align at a 90 degree angle to the tapered hole in the steering arm which connects to the spindle.
You could easily change your own loose tie-rod end. Go to Auto Zone and rent (free) or purchase a pitman arm puller for $14.00. Remove the tire. Spray the jam nut with Blaster. Loosen the jam nut slightly. Remove the cotter key at the end of the tie-rod end under the steering arm. Slide on the pitman arm puller, pointed end in the center of threaded tapered shaft. The two large fingers should now be on the top sides of the steering arm. Tighten the large threaded nut till the swivel part of the ball joint pops loose from the steering arm.
You should still get it aligned. When they do this ask them to check the tightness of the inner tie-rod ends
Even though you return the jam nut to the original location against the new tie-rod end it (new tie-rod end) may not index properly. The tapered threaded end may not align at a 90 degree angle to the tapered hole in the steering arm which connects to the spindle.
You could easily change your own loose tie-rod end. Go to Auto Zone and rent (free) or purchase a pitman arm puller for $14.00. Remove the tire. Spray the jam nut with Blaster. Loosen the jam nut slightly. Remove the cotter key at the end of the tie-rod end under the steering arm. Slide on the pitman arm puller, pointed end in the center of threaded tapered shaft. The two large fingers should now be on the top sides of the steering arm. Tighten the large threaded nut till the swivel part of the ball joint pops loose from the steering arm.
You should still get it aligned. When they do this ask them to check the tightness of the inner tie-rod ends
How difficult is it to change the brakes and brake discs on a 4 wheel drive Toyota?
have a T100 4x4 and i have heard that it is more difficult than usual to change out the brakes and roters ,,since it is a 4x4....I am not sure how much of that is just a "marketing ploy" to charge you nearly 1/3 more..but...was wondering if i was going to do it myself..how difficult and which tools i would need and how much time?
also, if just wanting to change out the front brakes..and discs...would this make any difference?
please explain and if can ,,give instructions. WHY DO MECHANICS CHARGE SO MUCH TOO? ..lol...AND HOW MUCH I CAN SAVE PROBABLY BY DOING IT MYSELF AND BUYING PARTS AT AN OFF BRAND PARTS STORE? (SINCE MANY ALSO SAY THEY WONT USE OFF BRAND PARTS.."FOR INSURANCE REASONS")
thanks for your answers!|||http://www.yotatech.com/f132/toyota-t100鈥?/a>|||Mechanics charge because they have very high overhead costs. They have a fortune invested in tools. They have to go back to school ever year to keep up with the technology. They have to buy new software for their scan tools every year. The shops have to pay for worker's comp insurance to cover injuries on the job. The shop has to pay to comply with environmental laws.
So the answer is, they earn every penny of it.
Now, Mr. Cheapskate. Instead of asking for us to sit here and type out 4 pages of step by step instructions, why don't you shell out $12 for a 1-week subscription to eautoreapair.net and print out the instructions yourself.
also, if just wanting to change out the front brakes..and discs...would this make any difference?
please explain and if can ,,give instructions. WHY DO MECHANICS CHARGE SO MUCH TOO? ..lol...AND HOW MUCH I CAN SAVE PROBABLY BY DOING IT MYSELF AND BUYING PARTS AT AN OFF BRAND PARTS STORE? (SINCE MANY ALSO SAY THEY WONT USE OFF BRAND PARTS.."FOR INSURANCE REASONS")
thanks for your answers!|||http://www.yotatech.com/f132/toyota-t100鈥?/a>|||Mechanics charge because they have very high overhead costs. They have a fortune invested in tools. They have to go back to school ever year to keep up with the technology. They have to buy new software for their scan tools every year. The shops have to pay for worker's comp insurance to cover injuries on the job. The shop has to pay to comply with environmental laws.
So the answer is, they earn every penny of it.
Now, Mr. Cheapskate. Instead of asking for us to sit here and type out 4 pages of step by step instructions, why don't you shell out $12 for a 1-week subscription to eautoreapair.net and print out the instructions yourself.
How hard is it to break parts off roading?
i have a 93 ford explorer limited it has 4 wheel drive so i know u can break parts but how hard is it can i go normal speed (20ish mph) or do i need to go really slow (5-10 mph) or can i hall like 35 mph and not have to worry and the stuff i would go on is just like a big 4 wheeler trail with some bad ruts|||let the road be your guide, and your butt, the harder you are on your rig, the harder your body gets the pee beat out of it, and breaking parts is easy, there are groups of guys who get together and go all extreme, and bring everything from spare parts trucks to welders, but if you don't have all that stuff, do not do any superman moves, and never go to a isolated spot by yourself, I have pulled off road on trails I knew well and gotten stuck a few hundred feet from the street dropping a wheel in a water filled hole that was a lot deeper than it looked, and got the differential hung up on a mud covered rock, . IF YOU see those commercials with the truck leaping over bumps and stuff, or pounding hard over rocks, that's how to break parts, spinning tires in loose stuff, and then catching traction, can break axles or u joints easy. So always make sure your rig is in good mechanical shape, If it has a broken part, dont go. have fun, and NEVER EVER GO ANYWHERE WITH OUT A FULL TANK OF GAS. We have gone up a mountain road, I told my buddy to fill up, but he was often a fool, and one time something happened to the trail behind us,a rock slide, and we had to take a really long way up and over the mountain, he was so scared he was going to run out of gas on these steep rocky nasty cliffs it was almost funny. In order to get out, I made him follow me, super slow, he wanted to just rocket as fast as possible, and I said NO GO SLOW, TO SAVE FUEL. we got to safety on fumes somehow for his truck. Also downhills take longer to stop, you can stop fast going up hill. I had a friend who liked to play mario andretti on hairy mountain roads, he would just scream down that mmountain one time he flew around a corner, hit some loose debris from a rock slide, and fishtailed to a stop, his tires pushed three inches of dirt in front of them, I came around the corner, and recognized his tire prints in the dirt an inch from shooting off a thousand foot drop. (I asked him on the cb how he liked the ride he said he didn't have time to pay attention, he was trying to jump out of the truck, but forgot he had a seat belt on, luckily he stopped and inch from sure death by gods grace. The key?? don't do anything horrendously stupid, and you will live to go 4x4 another day, have cb radios to communicate (those cheap crappy hand held cobra from wal mart will work for short distances just fine. or get a good cb. take more people, and if you want to race, fine, go explore the road FIRST, SO YOU DON'T FLY OFF ANY CLIFFS, OR SLAM HEAD ON INTO A ROCK FACE.
YOU CAN HAVE A BLAST in a few inches of snow, but when you look in the mirror and start to see the differential groove as the snow gets deep going up hill, turn around right there. And if you want to have fun and never fix a flat tire, get the bf goodrich all terrain ko, they will work in just about everthing well, and even bald, have a two inch thick layer of rubber. My buddy used to take his worn tires, and almost everytime we went, he got a flat, it was a real pain in the butt, so get some good tires.|||really easy! thats why those who do usually have a stock of tie rod ends, shocks,wheels, ect laying around,so you can get to work on monday. tip: keep a spare tie rod end, pickle fork and tools for your truck with you at all times, the other stuff you can usually limp home with.|||If your butt and hands feel like they're getting beat up, so is your Explorer - slow down until you and the Sploder are both a bit more comfortable.|||stock steering rods break very easy when in four wheel drive, drive lines iunder heavy excessive loads can break as well as u-joints. These are all weak links and should be up-graded to heavy duty parts made specifically for off roading|||Nobody 4 wheel's at 35 mph. 4 wheeling isn't a race. It's easy to break stuff.|||thats what you mom said last night _******_
YOU CAN HAVE A BLAST in a few inches of snow, but when you look in the mirror and start to see the differential groove as the snow gets deep going up hill, turn around right there. And if you want to have fun and never fix a flat tire, get the bf goodrich all terrain ko, they will work in just about everthing well, and even bald, have a two inch thick layer of rubber. My buddy used to take his worn tires, and almost everytime we went, he got a flat, it was a real pain in the butt, so get some good tires.|||really easy! thats why those who do usually have a stock of tie rod ends, shocks,wheels, ect laying around,so you can get to work on monday. tip: keep a spare tie rod end, pickle fork and tools for your truck with you at all times, the other stuff you can usually limp home with.|||If your butt and hands feel like they're getting beat up, so is your Explorer - slow down until you and the Sploder are both a bit more comfortable.|||stock steering rods break very easy when in four wheel drive, drive lines iunder heavy excessive loads can break as well as u-joints. These are all weak links and should be up-graded to heavy duty parts made specifically for off roading|||Nobody 4 wheel's at 35 mph. 4 wheeling isn't a race. It's easy to break stuff.|||thats what you mom said last night _******_
2000 Dodge Durango with105k,miles 5.9 engine 4 wheel drive? Help What should I do?
Somebody told me this earlie. The vehicle should be on axel stands worn out engine,suspension,steering,brake parts etc removed and quotes arranged for.
What does that means?|||I would have to say I cant understand what you are trying to ask.But it sounds like you have normal maintenance issues you need to deal with.Yes these are great vehicles,but you have to maintain them.
What does that means?|||I would have to say I cant understand what you are trying to ask.But it sounds like you have normal maintenance issues you need to deal with.Yes these are great vehicles,but you have to maintain them.
Brake question on a 1992 ford explorer 4 wheel drive?
My brakes on the front of my car have been rubbing or sticking from time to time. I have lock in hubs and when I lock in the hubs the problem worsen. Then when i push the button on the inside of the car to go to four whell drive it worsens even more. So I first replaced the brake pads, secondly replaced the calipers thinking they were naturally bad, I am thinking it is the master cylinder but don't want to buy more parts until i know whats wrong can anyone help me.|||Im thinking you have a bad wheel bearing or ball joint putting the rotor into a bind, and when you put it into 4wd that really locks it up
Advice on front brake parts and replacing them?
I have a 2001 Ford Ranger. 2wd not sure of 4 or 2 wheel anti-lock. It is the 4cyl, 2.5L. Just would like some advice/help on new rotors and pads for the front, and how to go about changing them.
would it be better to get more expensive rotors or pads? should I just get factor parts? Should I just get some one to do it? I have the tools just not 100% knowledge.|||Ford brakes are easy to change, jackup your truck,remove the wheel then, look at the caliper, it holds both disk pads in place,look at the sliding bar on top of the breaks you will see two bolts about 1/2 size take these 2 bolts out,then tap the caliper down until the top (where the slide bar is) clears the slot in the top,then pull the caliper off and the old pads will fall out (remember which pad is in and which pad is out) then take a C-clamp and using one of the old pads push the plunger(the thing that shoves the brake pads) back so the new pads will go over the disk brake rotary, then install the new brake pads and put everthing back together just as it come apart. Now since you pushed the plunger in the caliper back with the c-clamp you didn't lose much brake fluid at all, so now you will not have to bleed the brakes just check to see if you need to add more brake fluid. Then when you get ready to move your truck remember to pump your brakes a few time before you move the truck, if you forget to pump your brakes the first time you hit your brakes you may not have any.|||Go to any major auto store and they should sell repair manuals for most models. As for the brake parts, always go for top quality, since inferior brakes can cause accidents. Also, get ceramic brakes since they perform better and leave less brake dust.|||i would get the cheaper pads but more expensive rotors they are less likely to warp dont but factory.i had 95 blazer and they would have to be changed erery 30,000 miles|||#1 Your vehicle's braking ability is extremely crucial to your safety as well as the motorist around you; so have someone who is 100% knowledgeable to work on them
#2 If you don't have any extinuating circumstances in the way which you drive your vehicle, factory parts are always the best way to go. Besides, the more expensive brake pads, such as the ceramic ones, only eat up the rotors to the point that they are unusable by the time the next brake service comes.|||first.you will need to find out if it has torsion bar or front coil spring suspension. rotors and pads are different between the two. should put on ceramic pads if avaiable for your truck..|||Book writer has got it. the only thing I would add is if your rotor's are groved find an auto parts store that turns rotor's. Should be about 5$ - 15$ a rotor. They come off easily once the caliper is off. Just pull.
would it be better to get more expensive rotors or pads? should I just get factor parts? Should I just get some one to do it? I have the tools just not 100% knowledge.|||Ford brakes are easy to change, jackup your truck,remove the wheel then, look at the caliper, it holds both disk pads in place,look at the sliding bar on top of the breaks you will see two bolts about 1/2 size take these 2 bolts out,then tap the caliper down until the top (where the slide bar is) clears the slot in the top,then pull the caliper off and the old pads will fall out (remember which pad is in and which pad is out) then take a C-clamp and using one of the old pads push the plunger(the thing that shoves the brake pads) back so the new pads will go over the disk brake rotary, then install the new brake pads and put everthing back together just as it come apart. Now since you pushed the plunger in the caliper back with the c-clamp you didn't lose much brake fluid at all, so now you will not have to bleed the brakes just check to see if you need to add more brake fluid. Then when you get ready to move your truck remember to pump your brakes a few time before you move the truck, if you forget to pump your brakes the first time you hit your brakes you may not have any.|||Go to any major auto store and they should sell repair manuals for most models. As for the brake parts, always go for top quality, since inferior brakes can cause accidents. Also, get ceramic brakes since they perform better and leave less brake dust.|||i would get the cheaper pads but more expensive rotors they are less likely to warp dont but factory.i had 95 blazer and they would have to be changed erery 30,000 miles|||#1 Your vehicle's braking ability is extremely crucial to your safety as well as the motorist around you; so have someone who is 100% knowledgeable to work on them
#2 If you don't have any extinuating circumstances in the way which you drive your vehicle, factory parts are always the best way to go. Besides, the more expensive brake pads, such as the ceramic ones, only eat up the rotors to the point that they are unusable by the time the next brake service comes.|||first.you will need to find out if it has torsion bar or front coil spring suspension. rotors and pads are different between the two. should put on ceramic pads if avaiable for your truck..|||Book writer has got it. the only thing I would add is if your rotor's are groved find an auto parts store that turns rotor's. Should be about 5$ - 15$ a rotor. They come off easily once the caliper is off. Just pull.
Can i put Chevy lumina parts on an 1987 Corsica, Berrtta too?
I just got a 87 Corsica and with the thought in mind of dropping in a 95 motor and tranny , and putting a nice exhust and a nice set of rims i need some ideas for the inside. Can i put lumina or berretta interior in a Corsica?? Do early 80 Camaro rims fit ? Berreta Spoiler, lumina spoiler. and what car should i take the 4 wheel brakes set off of for my car?|||It's a Corsica man, just drive it, putting $$$ into it is crazy, you'll NEVER get it back if you ever sell the car.
No the interiors won't swap, the spoiler won't swap(Lumina one) Camaro rims won't even come close to fitting, the motor would swap and the trans might(Lumina). Almost everything from the Beretta will swap over as it's really just a 2-door Corsica.
No offense man but you have a car that's worth $500, why would you put thousands upon thousands of dollars into it? I know it's your car and your $$ but look at the big picture. Let's say you dump $4K into and have to sell it due to an emergency...you won't even get a 1/4 of that back.
Just drive the car, they're meant for cheap, reliable transportation. I just got rid of mine after 155K miles, good cars...but not a hot-rod, not a classic, not a sports car...they're just cars you drive.
No the interiors won't swap, the spoiler won't swap(Lumina one) Camaro rims won't even come close to fitting, the motor would swap and the trans might(Lumina). Almost everything from the Beretta will swap over as it's really just a 2-door Corsica.
No offense man but you have a car that's worth $500, why would you put thousands upon thousands of dollars into it? I know it's your car and your $$ but look at the big picture. Let's say you dump $4K into and have to sell it due to an emergency...you won't even get a 1/4 of that back.
Just drive the car, they're meant for cheap, reliable transportation. I just got rid of mine after 155K miles, good cars...but not a hot-rod, not a classic, not a sports car...they're just cars you drive.
My 86 K5 Blazer makes a popping noise when i accelerate/ brake. Has 6" lift & 35's. what could cause this?
I have a new tranny and new 4.56's front and rear. I installed the the tranny but had 4 wheel parts put in gears. It only pops once when accelerating/ braking hard. it almost sounds like my axle is shifting on the leafs. maybe a broken motor/ tranny mount?|||Your axle probably is shifting on the leaf pack. It is not uncommon for the center pin in the leaf pack to shear. The pin is what keeps your axle in place. Also, retorque the U-bolts
What are the differences between these drivetrains?
What are the differences between these systems:
1) Multi-Mode 4-wheel drive
2) Full-time 4-wheel drive
3) Electronic On-Demand 4-wheel drive
4) All-Wheel Drive
5) part-time 4-wheel drive
???|||For me would be like this:
1) Multi-Mode 4-wheel drive
The car usually have a transfer case and you have 2 options for 4WD setup, a regular 4wd and a reduction gear. A Jeep Liberty for example.
2) Full-time 4-wheel drive
The car doesn't have the option for a 2wd, but don't have a reduction gear. Subaru Impreza for example
3) Electronic On-Demand 4-wheel drive
The 4wd engage only when the front wheels loose traction. VW Golf R32 for example
4) All-Wheel Drive
The same of the number 2
5) part-time 4-wheel drive
The car uses only the 4wd when you want, otherwise the car runs as a 2wd. This kind of car don't have a reduction gear as well. The Ford Escape for example.
1) Multi-Mode 4-wheel drive
2) Full-time 4-wheel drive
3) Electronic On-Demand 4-wheel drive
4) All-Wheel Drive
5) part-time 4-wheel drive
???|||For me would be like this:
1) Multi-Mode 4-wheel drive
The car usually have a transfer case and you have 2 options for 4WD setup, a regular 4wd and a reduction gear. A Jeep Liberty for example.
2) Full-time 4-wheel drive
The car doesn't have the option for a 2wd, but don't have a reduction gear. Subaru Impreza for example
3) Electronic On-Demand 4-wheel drive
The 4wd engage only when the front wheels loose traction. VW Golf R32 for example
4) All-Wheel Drive
The same of the number 2
5) part-time 4-wheel drive
The car uses only the 4wd when you want, otherwise the car runs as a 2wd. This kind of car don't have a reduction gear as well. The Ford Escape for example.
CARS & TRANSPORTATION/ "REF:1991 NISSAN 240Sx /Se ; Q.Is It Possible To Change From 4 Wheel .2 2 Wheel Drive
THE HICAS SYSTEM IN THIS CAR IS AIMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO FIND RELACEMENT PARTS FOR. PUMP PARTS, P HOSES ETC ETC .|||Anything is possible with the right $, but you're talking about totally redesigning and rebuilding the front drivetrain system at a LARGE cost, i.e. more than the car is worth.
Tuesday, December 20, 2011
CARS & TRANSPORTATION/ "REF:1991 NISSAN 240Sx /Se ; Q.Is It Possible To Change From 4 Wheel .2 2 Wheel Drive
THE HICAS SYSTEM IN THIS CAR IS AIMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO FIND RELACEMENT PARTS FOR. PUMP PARTS, P HOSES ETC ETC .|||sure, just find someone that wants it, try craigslist.org :)|||of course, just change out the transmission and disconnect unneeded drive shafts to lower the drag coefficient|||HICAS is 4-wheel steering, not drive.
Yes you can eliminate it.
There are a few different ways to do it (eliminator bars, etc), but the most thorough would be to change your rear subframe, PS pump, lines, reservior (and possibly rack) with a non-HICAS 240sx,
Yes you can eliminate it.
There are a few different ways to do it (eliminator bars, etc), but the most thorough would be to change your rear subframe, PS pump, lines, reservior (and possibly rack) with a non-HICAS 240sx,
What would I ask for the following auto parts for toyota truck 88?
22 R motor car berated, 5 speed .and automatic transmission with 4 wheel drive motor has 100,000 miles.Thanks in advance.|||Most major auto parts store have those books to look up part numbers for whatever vehicle n part u need, like looking for rite oil filter. The 88 woud be known as just a toyota truck or rarely a toyota hilux. If scavenging a junkyard and no trucks t be found, look for a first generation 4runnner w/ same engine, basically same vehicle under hood.|||Need more Information on what you want to do with it.
Where can I find parts for a 1977 w-200 4x4?
It is a monster!!! 4-wheel drive, 360 bored out with a 4-barrel carb, duel exaust with glass packs, and a lot of work, body wise, to be done to it.|||Do a Google on 77 Dodge 4x4. Something will pop up. You can use most of the parts from 1973 up to 1993. The frames and drive train are pretty much the same for twenty years. The 77-78 Dodge trucks were the best looking trucks of all time.
I had a 79 PowerWagon with a 440 that was pumped up, and it had a 4" lift on it with 33's and 4.11's in the diffs. 6MPG forced me to sell it.
I had a 79 PowerWagon with a 440 that was pumped up, and it had a 4" lift on it with 33's and 4.11's in the diffs. 6MPG forced me to sell it.
Car parts, 4 questions, first helpful answers full points?
The _______ controls the flow of coolant to the radiator.
In rear-wheel vehicles, the _________ carries power to the differential.
A vehicles catalytic converter converts harmful gases into less harmful gases and ____________.
A power steering system uses ____________ pump and fluid to make steering easier.|||Which page of the manual is this homework of yours on|||water pump,
drive shaft
carbon/soot
hydraulic steering|||water pump
driveshaft
water
power steering|||This question is in the wrong category. It should either be under "homework help" or "car maintenance".
In rear-wheel vehicles, the _________ carries power to the differential.
A vehicles catalytic converter converts harmful gases into less harmful gases and ____________.
A power steering system uses ____________ pump and fluid to make steering easier.|||Which page of the manual is this homework of yours on|||water pump,
drive shaft
carbon/soot
hydraulic steering|||water pump
driveshaft
water
power steering|||This question is in the wrong category. It should either be under "homework help" or "car maintenance".
How do i remove the front drive shaft on a Jeep?
The 4 wheel drive is stuck and undrivable with the driveshaft(front wheels slip/burn out w/ little gas) so i want to remove it, any one have any pics or written directions on how to do so? Also will this hurt the transmission or transfer case? Its stuck in part time 4 wheel drive is that matter. Thanks for any and all info!|||Wait! before you remove your front shaft know this... unless your transfer case is locked in you will cause severe damage driving on a single axel. there is a well to put it bluntly a giant spring that helps compensate when one axel spins faster than the other but if one tire is much smaller or one axel is disengaged you can easily destroy your transfer case. it overcoils the spring and ruins it... and to remove your driveshaft just unbolt the U bolts on both ends... there will be 4 bolts on the differential side and 4 bolts on the transfer case side.|||Crawl under. There will be some bolts or nuts you can remove that hold the driveshaft in. You'll find them.
It won't hurt anything to have it stuck in 4wd with the front driveshaft out.|||you either have a bad sending unit, or a bad vaccum motor on your front axle. remove the plate over the vaccum motor on the left side,(looking at it from the front), of the front axle. take a screwdriver, and push the shaft towards the wheel to disengage the 4 wheel drive. much better than taking out the drive shaft since your axle would still turn and drag anyway from the wheels turning|||umm take the bottom apart.
http://4wheeldrive.about.com/od/jeepmain鈥?/a>|||my gudness, get a mechanic|||Very carefully!
It won't hurt anything to have it stuck in 4wd with the front driveshaft out.|||you either have a bad sending unit, or a bad vaccum motor on your front axle. remove the plate over the vaccum motor on the left side,(looking at it from the front), of the front axle. take a screwdriver, and push the shaft towards the wheel to disengage the 4 wheel drive. much better than taking out the drive shaft since your axle would still turn and drag anyway from the wheels turning|||umm take the bottom apart.
http://4wheeldrive.about.com/od/jeepmain鈥?/a>|||my gudness, get a mechanic|||Very carefully!
Would you be upset if you found out your b/f took a day off work to 4-wheel when you have collectors calling?
My boyfriend and I have a young son together. I go to school full-time and work part-time. He works as a car salesman and we have quite a bit of debt because we bought a house a couple years ago and we're having a hard time making ends meet. He works most days of the week but the majority of the days are half-days unless he's selling a car then he stays all day. I understand everyone needs a break and some time for R%26amp;R, but whenyou're broke, and have collectors calling the house am I the only one who thinks it irresponsible to request a day off so your can go 4-wheeling all day? He could have been and should have been at work trying to sell cars. He only gets comission. And the thing that angers me the most is that he didn't intend for me to find out he took the day off. He said he needed a break but he's spening money on gas to 4-wheel when he couldn't pay one of our bills this month. He's 33 yrs old and was 4-wheeling and smoking pot with his buds. Would you be upset?|||Yes, I would be. He's a loser. Hopefully he will grow up but he may not. Stay in school, it may become very important in your future.|||The collectors would still be calling even if he went to work. One days paycheck surely aint gonna get them off of your back...is it? He obviously needed a mental break.....it sounds like you could use the same thing. Collectors are gonna always call even if you worked 7 days a week to pay them. Its no use getting all hung up over bills, its people with real issues in the world|||Giving the fact that money is tight. And you have a child with collectors calling. Yes I would be. You could always do that on a weekend. I know people do need a break from time to time. But family needs do need to come first. That includes monthly bills.|||I would be mad. Money is serious. Be happy you aren't married, or it would effect your credit more. Perhaps sell the house, rent and finish your school (I always believe it is so important).
Needs a break my ****. He needs to grow up!|||its called the "red flag" sign. Get away from him and take your son. He is immature, irresponsible and probably using you. You can do better than him.|||I'd say I hope you enjoyed your day...I just sold your 4 wheeler on ebay. Thanks for paying the bills...|||upset is not even close for the word i'd be. ESPECIALLY the pot issue-with a child at home...I quit ALL partying when I found out I was pregnant, 18 years ago, only occasional drink now..and trust me I could party. sounds like he really needs to get his priorities straight, and probably another job with a steady income...look out for yourself and the kid-he can take care of himself-but obviously not you and the child. good luck.|||Sweetheart, your a slave driver and your B/F deserves a break.
Smoking pot is immature but having a day off for friends isn't. If he has a pot problem, you should discuss that with him but give him a break regarding his day off.
Trust me, if that's the worst thing he does, you should be giving him a hug because if you had that attitude with me, I'd be looking for another girl. Not trying to be mean but you need to relax.
Needs a break my ****. He needs to grow up!|||its called the "red flag" sign. Get away from him and take your son. He is immature, irresponsible and probably using you. You can do better than him.|||I'd say I hope you enjoyed your day...I just sold your 4 wheeler on ebay. Thanks for paying the bills...|||upset is not even close for the word i'd be. ESPECIALLY the pot issue-with a child at home...I quit ALL partying when I found out I was pregnant, 18 years ago, only occasional drink now..and trust me I could party. sounds like he really needs to get his priorities straight, and probably another job with a steady income...look out for yourself and the kid-he can take care of himself-but obviously not you and the child. good luck.|||Sweetheart, your a slave driver and your B/F deserves a break.
Smoking pot is immature but having a day off for friends isn't. If he has a pot problem, you should discuss that with him but give him a break regarding his day off.
Trust me, if that's the worst thing he does, you should be giving him a hug because if you had that attitude with me, I'd be looking for another girl. Not trying to be mean but you need to relax.
92 toyota corolla wagon 4 WHEEL DRIVE Fuel tank?
where on earth can i order a friggin-flippin-gosh-darn fuel tank for a 1992 toyota corolla dlx all trac wagon that is FOUR WHEEL DRIVE!!!??? i have looked at all the junk yards listed in my ENTIRE phone book, in all the auto parts catalogs i could find here online and i have no idea where else to look-this is a great car and the only thing that's wrong with it is the gas tank has a massive hole-everything else is nearly perfect. these cars run up and over 300,000 no problem, and mine only has 138,000! but i cant drive it with no gas tank! where can i get one, other than TOYOTA? Toyota will charge me over $400 for a new tank and i only paid $500 for the WHOLE CAR! HELP!|||car-part.com
Good luck.
Good luck.
Mopar alternator for my 2003 dodge dekota, 4.7 V8 2 wheel drive, Is it possible to order from mopar directly?
and dose anyone have a contact number for them?
the dealership wanted 320 for it! My truck is 6 years old, aren't the parts supposed to get cheaper as it gets older?|||You have several choices. If you want to buy parts directly from Chrysler (MOPAR) you will need to become a franchised dealer. You would have to find a dealership that is for sale, and be approved for ownership by Chrysler. This will involve a minimum investment in the one million dollar range.
Choice two is to buy your parts from an existing dealer, and pay retail price.
Choice three, and this is the one I would look into, is to buy a rebuilt alternator from an independent parts store, or a chain. You can buy a good rebuilt alternator for under $200.|||If you find a good auto electric shop, it is worth its weight in gold
|||The dealership is always higher. Go to your local auto parts store , they will save you money. then can help you. good Luck|||If you go to one of your local auto parts store you will be able to get a rebuilt one for around $60. Some auto parts stores give a lifetime guarantee on their rebuilds. I bought one from Autozone a while back witha lifetime guarantee for my '72 Plymouth, it self destructed at close to 8000 rpm, and I got a new one with no questions asked for free. After destroying the 3rd one they got a little perturbed with me!
the dealership wanted 320 for it! My truck is 6 years old, aren't the parts supposed to get cheaper as it gets older?|||You have several choices. If you want to buy parts directly from Chrysler (MOPAR) you will need to become a franchised dealer. You would have to find a dealership that is for sale, and be approved for ownership by Chrysler. This will involve a minimum investment in the one million dollar range.
Choice two is to buy your parts from an existing dealer, and pay retail price.
Choice three, and this is the one I would look into, is to buy a rebuilt alternator from an independent parts store, or a chain. You can buy a good rebuilt alternator for under $200.|||If you find a good auto electric shop, it is worth its weight in gold
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|||The dealership is always higher. Go to your local auto parts store , they will save you money. then can help you. good Luck|||If you go to one of your local auto parts store you will be able to get a rebuilt one for around $60. Some auto parts stores give a lifetime guarantee on their rebuilds. I bought one from Autozone a while back witha lifetime guarantee for my '72 Plymouth, it self destructed at close to 8000 rpm, and I got a new one with no questions asked for free. After destroying the 3rd one they got a little perturbed with me!
Wheel compatibility between Volkswagen and Saturn wheels?
I hit a pit hole and dented the metal part of the wheel on my saturn tire and it made the tire go flat. It is a 14 inch wheel with 4 lug nuts, and a friend of mine has a volkswagon tire that is also 14 inches and 4 lug nuts. Is it possible to take this tire to a shop and have it changed? Or does the tire not match up with the car?
I really need to know immediately, I'm trying to find a job and not have a vehicle is a good way to halt the process.|||Check the tire sizes and make sure they are the same for starters. The tire size would be listed for example as P195/60/R14. As long as those numbers are the same on both tires you wont have a problem. Make sure your friend's rim is the same bolt pattern as yours, thats easy to figure out, take your wheel off, then take his wheel and see if it will bolt up, if so then you've found your spare rim. Now just go to whatever tire shop you like and have them swap tires and you're good to go. If his rim doesn't fit, you might try some of the mom and pop tire and wheel shops, they keep stock rims sometimes for people who like to play chicken with curbs ;) I had a customer with a bent rim and went to a local tire shop and picked one up for $15. Hope this helps.
-Chris (Lead Tech - Hamilton's Car Care)
I really need to know immediately, I'm trying to find a job and not have a vehicle is a good way to halt the process.|||Check the tire sizes and make sure they are the same for starters. The tire size would be listed for example as P195/60/R14. As long as those numbers are the same on both tires you wont have a problem. Make sure your friend's rim is the same bolt pattern as yours, thats easy to figure out, take your wheel off, then take his wheel and see if it will bolt up, if so then you've found your spare rim. Now just go to whatever tire shop you like and have them swap tires and you're good to go. If his rim doesn't fit, you might try some of the mom and pop tire and wheel shops, they keep stock rims sometimes for people who like to play chicken with curbs ;) I had a customer with a bent rim and went to a local tire shop and picked one up for $15. Hope this helps.
-Chris (Lead Tech - Hamilton's Car Care)
Can I take a 2 wheel drive trans & bolt it up 2 a four wheel drive transfer in a 93toyota 4runner?
I'm looking for parts and I was wondering if a 2 wheel drive is the same as a 4 wheel drive trans with out the transfer case|||it wont fit
98 Tahoe LT 4 wheel Drive Question?
Hi I was Driving on the freeway and doing the Speed limit and all of sudden the truck started to vibrate real bad when I was trying to get off the freeway I heard a PoP and when I put it in park it still kept rolling so I put on the emergency break to get it to stop I looked under and saw some gears r out and the casing that enclosed them was busted but the gears look ok to me. However Do you know how much this would cost me to fix it looks like it's a 4 wheel drive casing.
Here are 3 Pic's of what it looks like http://www.geocities.com/dwfcommish/phot鈥?/a> if anyone could tell me what the part name is or how much it would it cost to repair I'm in California and Thank You.|||busted transfer case wont be cheap you'll need a new one
good luck|||Hmm driving around on paved roads with the 4WD system engaged. Your looking at some expensive repairs for that. That definitely is the transfer case. I'm not sure of an exact repair cost but I'm leaning towards at least $2,000. After that repair maybe you'll learn not to drive in 4WD on paved surfaces LOL. Anything related to 4WD is going to be expensive.
Here are 3 Pic's of what it looks like http://www.geocities.com/dwfcommish/phot鈥?/a> if anyone could tell me what the part name is or how much it would it cost to repair I'm in California and Thank You.|||busted transfer case wont be cheap you'll need a new one
good luck|||Hmm driving around on paved roads with the 4WD system engaged. Your looking at some expensive repairs for that. That definitely is the transfer case. I'm not sure of an exact repair cost but I'm leaning towards at least $2,000. After that repair maybe you'll learn not to drive in 4WD on paved surfaces LOL. Anything related to 4WD is going to be expensive.
Please help I am having 4 wheel drive issues?
I have a 1999 Chevy Silverado 1500 LS Z71 5.3 L V8.
My 4 wheel drive selector switch in the cab is bad and I need a new one. I called Advanced, Auto Zone, Napa, and O'Rilley's. They all told me the same thing. This part is on back order. I was trying to avoid paying a lot of $ at a dealership for the part, and I am not going to get it from a junkyard either because it is too sensitive of a part. Does ANYONE know where I might be able to get this part. Thanks.|||rockauto.com they are the lowest priced anyway
My 4 wheel drive selector switch in the cab is bad and I need a new one. I called Advanced, Auto Zone, Napa, and O'Rilley's. They all told me the same thing. This part is on back order. I was trying to avoid paying a lot of $ at a dealership for the part, and I am not going to get it from a junkyard either because it is too sensitive of a part. Does ANYONE know where I might be able to get this part. Thanks.|||rockauto.com they are the lowest priced anyway
Four Wheel Drive bracket to shift from 2 wheel drive to 4 wheel drive from inside the cab?
I have a 1996 Ford F150 xtra cab pick up. The last time I shifted into 4 wheel drive the lever inside the cab of the truck just wobbled back and fourth. Upon further examination I found that the lever is attached to a rod that hooks into the transfer case. My problem is this; there is a type of bracket with teeth or cutouts that the shifting lever from inside the cab sits in underneath the truck, that bracket broke so I am unable to shift into 4 wheel drive or 2 wheel drive. Where can I find another bracket for the shifting arm to sit in so that i can shift into 4wheel drive from the cab? What is this part called?
Thanks for the help|||try a junk yard.if you cant find one there you will have to go to a dealer.cant remember what its called.
Thanks for the help|||try a junk yard.if you cant find one there you will have to go to a dealer.cant remember what its called.
Jeep wont start after it was stuck in 4 wheel drive low not high?
Went and started my 1996 Jeep Cherokee Country even though its cold started fine. Switched it in 4 Wheel Drive Full Time since of course theres snow everywhere. The dash read Part Time (vehicle was in park and still is) so I waited for it to realize its in full time. It didnt. So I shut my Jeep off thinking it just needed to be reset. Now it wont start. It turns on, and tries to engage but the engine doesnt click on. Its not the starter/battery etc. Is it a computer glitch? please help Ive tried turning just the battery part on and off and trying to start and still nothing. Tried putting it in neutral and starting, same thing.|||The T-case has nothing to do with the motor not starting.|||Ignition relay....little black box attached to the steering column under the dash. Replace it. The part costs about $15 and you can replace it yourself.
The 4x4 incident was a coincidence|||First, in order for the full time 4 wheel to engage, the car has to move a tiny bit. The wheels have to move, and then the transfer case lock in and the front wheel differential will engage. So, after you start it, just move the car and it should shift to full time.
As for not starting, you say it is not your battery. If there is a "clicking noise" then the starter solenoid is not fully engaging, and a low battery could cause this.
I don't now what you mean by "turning the battery part on and off"... the battery doesn't have an on and off switch.
Your car not starting and it being in 4 wheel drive are two separate things, and so shouldn't affect each other. However, if it is electronic switching, maybe you left it on, and over a period of time, it wore the battery down a bit.
Ask for a jump and then let it run for half an hour, to recharge.
And you have to let the wheels roll before it will engage the full time 4 wheel drive. Once the car moves a few inches, it should engages.
The 4x4 incident was a coincidence|||First, in order for the full time 4 wheel to engage, the car has to move a tiny bit. The wheels have to move, and then the transfer case lock in and the front wheel differential will engage. So, after you start it, just move the car and it should shift to full time.
As for not starting, you say it is not your battery. If there is a "clicking noise" then the starter solenoid is not fully engaging, and a low battery could cause this.
I don't now what you mean by "turning the battery part on and off"... the battery doesn't have an on and off switch.
Your car not starting and it being in 4 wheel drive are two separate things, and so shouldn't affect each other. However, if it is electronic switching, maybe you left it on, and over a period of time, it wore the battery down a bit.
Ask for a jump and then let it run for half an hour, to recharge.
And you have to let the wheels roll before it will engage the full time 4 wheel drive. Once the car moves a few inches, it should engages.
Riddle: i hv 4 wheels can b used by 1 person, not used on roads, do not hv an engine, name has 2 parts?
riddle i m not able 2 solve. help|||skateboard|||wheelchair, or the office chairs|||a wheel chair? a stroller? a rolie chair? a skate board? roller blades?
I have used my 4-wheel drive during the last ice/snow storm. At first, the part time?
light came on when it was in 4HI, as it should. After using it, however, the light came on when it was back in 2 wheel and turned off in 4HI. I tried to get up my steep driveway while the light was on but in 2 wheel position, and I was unable to do so. When I placed it in the 4HI position, even tho the PART TIME light went off, I was able to navigate my driveway easily. My concern is that the lights are no longer functioning properly. Am I correct, or is my car actually still engaged in 4HI even tho the gear is is 2 wheel position?|||You would likely get a better and more correct answer asking this under the car and transportation section under repairs.
Will the front suspension work from a 2000 4 cyl accord in a 2001 6 cyl??
I have 2 Honda Accords. One is a 4 cyl 2000 and the other is a 6 cyl 2001. I know that there are some differences in the 2 cars, like the wheels are five lug on the 6 cyl and 4 lug on the 4 cyl. I already placed the rear suspension from the 4 cyl on the 6 cyl and it seems to fit. But I was wondering if the front will. Are the front suspensions on the 2 cars the same? And is the knuckle the same? What are the differences in the wheel part of the car?? Thank You for your help!!|||99-02 interchange. But it has to be from a 6 cyl because of the weight difference, also 2dr or 4dr makes a difference|||no that will not work because of type of cyl
1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo is shaking and the wheel jerks?
Ok, so I bought my first car yesterday (a 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo with 142,000 miles). It has some problems but was running fine until tonight.
Earlier today I had the oil changed and the guy at the place said I should also get my transmission fluid changed (as it was mostly water) and also get my radiator flushed as that hadn't been done or something.
Well about an hour or two a go I went to fill up the tank for the first time (that was fun... owch at 60ish dollars for half a tank, lol... trucks are fun) and it was raining pretty heavily. I had read in the manual that in rain I should put it on "4 wheel drive part time" (the Jeep has something called a SELEC TRACK) so while stopped I put it down to that mode.
I tryed to put it in drive and drive away, but to my sadness the jeeps engine growled and it started moving oddly, the wheel fighting my hands to be free and basically being out of control. I put it back into two wheel drive, and the problem remained (this is when I knew I was in deep doo-doo). I did my darndest to get it parked somewhere (it fighting me and lurching and not wanting to accelerate the whole way to the parking spot) and called my brother in law, who knows a lot about cars and such.
He couldn't figure exactly what was wrong, but he was able to get it to a mechanic and park it there for the night until tomorrow. The way he got the Jeep under control was to put it in 2 wheel drive and drive around in second gear at low to medium speed (it didn't do much of the aforementioned problems in this state, though the car shook more then it should have).
My question is, does anyone have any clue what happened? My brother in law thinks it could be the fact that my transmission fluid is mostly water, and since I went into 4 wheel drive I screwed it up (something along those lines, I SUCK at car stuff), but he was only openly saying a possibility. I don't have much money, and this worries me that the car I bought is a lemon :-(|||That would do it since there should be NO water in the transmission...the reason you have transmission fluid...Also, I would say the the mechanic you originally took it to is Highly suspect...Shady Mechanics will screw up your car to bring more business...Take it to a dealership ??? Real mechanic will perform only the work you ask them for...When they solicite other work..they are normally trying to rip you off. Good Luck|||drain the tranny fluid,drive around,50 or so miles,change it again.and see if there still water in it.they make a tranny adddive when u change second time put the addivt in it.let me know how it gos,and that dude is right take to a jeep dealer.|||I'd take it back to them and say whats up with all this.
Earlier today I had the oil changed and the guy at the place said I should also get my transmission fluid changed (as it was mostly water) and also get my radiator flushed as that hadn't been done or something.
Well about an hour or two a go I went to fill up the tank for the first time (that was fun... owch at 60ish dollars for half a tank, lol... trucks are fun) and it was raining pretty heavily. I had read in the manual that in rain I should put it on "4 wheel drive part time" (the Jeep has something called a SELEC TRACK) so while stopped I put it down to that mode.
I tryed to put it in drive and drive away, but to my sadness the jeeps engine growled and it started moving oddly, the wheel fighting my hands to be free and basically being out of control. I put it back into two wheel drive, and the problem remained (this is when I knew I was in deep doo-doo). I did my darndest to get it parked somewhere (it fighting me and lurching and not wanting to accelerate the whole way to the parking spot) and called my brother in law, who knows a lot about cars and such.
He couldn't figure exactly what was wrong, but he was able to get it to a mechanic and park it there for the night until tomorrow. The way he got the Jeep under control was to put it in 2 wheel drive and drive around in second gear at low to medium speed (it didn't do much of the aforementioned problems in this state, though the car shook more then it should have).
My question is, does anyone have any clue what happened? My brother in law thinks it could be the fact that my transmission fluid is mostly water, and since I went into 4 wheel drive I screwed it up (something along those lines, I SUCK at car stuff), but he was only openly saying a possibility. I don't have much money, and this worries me that the car I bought is a lemon :-(|||That would do it since there should be NO water in the transmission...the reason you have transmission fluid...Also, I would say the the mechanic you originally took it to is Highly suspect...Shady Mechanics will screw up your car to bring more business...Take it to a dealership ??? Real mechanic will perform only the work you ask them for...When they solicite other work..they are normally trying to rip you off. Good Luck|||drain the tranny fluid,drive around,50 or so miles,change it again.and see if there still water in it.they make a tranny adddive when u change second time put the addivt in it.let me know how it gos,and that dude is right take to a jeep dealer.|||I'd take it back to them and say whats up with all this.
How much would it cost for ball joints on all 4 wheels?
I have a 1998 Ford Explorer 2WD and it needs ball joints on all 4 tires. How much can I expect to pay for parts and labor at a shop?
Thanks!|||One web site you can use to do price checking on car repairs is in Driverside.com. They are still in beta but they have a ton of data on what car parts and repairs should cost. You can pick the specific car like a Ford Explorer to get the data.|||You're getting ripped off already, there's only ball joints on the front. They allow the spindle to turn and go through the suspension's range of motion. Don't deal with whoever told you that you need ball joints in the rear. I'd guess about $50 a piece for upper and lower, both sides $200. Labour would be 2-3 hours tops.|||atleast $150 in parts and depending on where you take it 2-4 hours labor at $70+ an hour
Thanks!|||One web site you can use to do price checking on car repairs is in Driverside.com. They are still in beta but they have a ton of data on what car parts and repairs should cost. You can pick the specific car like a Ford Explorer to get the data.|||You're getting ripped off already, there's only ball joints on the front. They allow the spindle to turn and go through the suspension's range of motion. Don't deal with whoever told you that you need ball joints in the rear. I'd guess about $50 a piece for upper and lower, both sides $200. Labour would be 2-3 hours tops.|||atleast $150 in parts and depending on where you take it 2-4 hours labor at $70+ an hour
A potter鈥檚 wheel of radius 47.54 cm and mass 108.4 kg is freely rotating at 49.2 rev/min. The potter can stop?
A potter鈥檚 wheel of radius 47.54 cm and mass 108.4 kg is freely rotating at 49.2 rev/min. The potter can stop the wheel in 6.469 s by pressing a wet rag against the rim and exerting a radially inward force of 66.7 N.
What is the angular acceleration of the wheel?
part 2
How much torque does the potter apply to the wheel?|||Hello
the frequency of the wheel is 49,2/60 = 0,82 Hz
蠅 = 2pif = 5,1522 rad/s (= angular frequency)
伪 = 5,1522/6,469 = 0,79644 rad/s^2 (angular acceleration = rather - 0,7944 rad/s^2 when it is called acceleration).
蟿 = I*伪 = (1/2 mR^2)*伪
= (0.5*108,4 kg *0,4754^2 m^2 )*0,79644 rad/s^2 = 9,7559 Nm
Regards
What is the angular acceleration of the wheel?
part 2
How much torque does the potter apply to the wheel?|||Hello
the frequency of the wheel is 49,2/60 = 0,82 Hz
蠅 = 2pif = 5,1522 rad/s (= angular frequency)
伪 = 5,1522/6,469 = 0,79644 rad/s^2 (angular acceleration = rather - 0,7944 rad/s^2 when it is called acceleration).
蟿 = I*伪 = (1/2 mR^2)*伪
= (0.5*108,4 kg *0,4754^2 m^2 )*0,79644 rad/s^2 = 9,7559 Nm
Regards
Jeep Cherokee 88 4 wheel drive makes noise when put in please help?
Well just bought a 88 jeep and it had some issues and know the 1st night it snows i put it in 4 wheel and its messed up. Well i put it in 4wheel part time when i give it more gas it starts making this loud clunkin noise and same with 4wheel allthe time. I really need to know whats wrong hope some one can help email me at Justracindsm@yahoo.com
Thanks for your help
Travis|||Sounds like you have an issues with your gear box.. might want to take that to a shop man.|||please consult someone it is about jeep because if you don't and try to do your own it became like my jeep.|||sounds like the planetries are not locking in or gear box problems see a mechanic.|||We don't know what's wrong. Show it to somebody in real life, who can hear the noise. That's how you find these things.
It might just be a u-joint. Probably is. They only cost $10.|||Can you tell if it is coming from the front axle or transfer case?
If front axle, look on the right side..Passenger side for a vacuum cylinder mounted on the axle. It moves a sliding sleeve that locks the axle when you go to 4 wheel drive.
Note all cherokees of that age had this, but it is possible you do.
If not, does the sound come from front axle. Internal damage to the ring and pinion and or u-joints due to someone driving in part time four wheel drive on cement.
If noise is transfer case, you should be able to feel it in shift lever, it will have to be rebuilt. Check for metal in oil of transfer case.
Good Luck.|||IT COULD BE THE X-FR CASE OR EVEN THE FRONT U -JOINTS ON THE OUTER END OF THE FRONT AXLES. THE X-FR CASE HAS A LARGE CHAIN IN IT, WHICH SEES ALOT OF WEAR OVER THE YEARS, VERY COMMON ON THE NEW PROCESS 231 X-FR CASE. CHECK FLUID FIRST IN X-FR CASE BY GETTING UNDER VEHICLE AND LOOK TOWARDS THE FRONT OF THE VEHICLE. ON THE BACK SIDE OF THE CASE YOU WILL SEE A LARGE PLUG. UNTHREAD AND STICK YOUR FINGER IN HOLE. YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO FEEL THE FLUID. IF YOU CANT, THE X-FR CASE COULD HAVE RAN DRY (CAUSED BY LEAKS) AND BURNT UP THE INTERNALS.|||If you are SURE it is coming out of the front right corner.....
Check the U-joints first as they will make a clunking noise. If you have the Command trac system, then you will have the vaccuum engagement system. With the Select-trac system you don't have it.
The Transfer case is located under the passenger comparment, its attached to the rear of the transmission, and the drive shafts will be attached to the transfer case.
Thanks for your help
Travis|||Sounds like you have an issues with your gear box.. might want to take that to a shop man.|||please consult someone it is about jeep because if you don't and try to do your own it became like my jeep.|||sounds like the planetries are not locking in or gear box problems see a mechanic.|||We don't know what's wrong. Show it to somebody in real life, who can hear the noise. That's how you find these things.
It might just be a u-joint. Probably is. They only cost $10.|||Can you tell if it is coming from the front axle or transfer case?
If front axle, look on the right side..Passenger side for a vacuum cylinder mounted on the axle. It moves a sliding sleeve that locks the axle when you go to 4 wheel drive.
Note all cherokees of that age had this, but it is possible you do.
If not, does the sound come from front axle. Internal damage to the ring and pinion and or u-joints due to someone driving in part time four wheel drive on cement.
If noise is transfer case, you should be able to feel it in shift lever, it will have to be rebuilt. Check for metal in oil of transfer case.
Good Luck.|||IT COULD BE THE X-FR CASE OR EVEN THE FRONT U -JOINTS ON THE OUTER END OF THE FRONT AXLES. THE X-FR CASE HAS A LARGE CHAIN IN IT, WHICH SEES ALOT OF WEAR OVER THE YEARS, VERY COMMON ON THE NEW PROCESS 231 X-FR CASE. CHECK FLUID FIRST IN X-FR CASE BY GETTING UNDER VEHICLE AND LOOK TOWARDS THE FRONT OF THE VEHICLE. ON THE BACK SIDE OF THE CASE YOU WILL SEE A LARGE PLUG. UNTHREAD AND STICK YOUR FINGER IN HOLE. YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO FEEL THE FLUID. IF YOU CANT, THE X-FR CASE COULD HAVE RAN DRY (CAUSED BY LEAKS) AND BURNT UP THE INTERNALS.|||If you are SURE it is coming out of the front right corner.....
Check the U-joints first as they will make a clunking noise. If you have the Command trac system, then you will have the vaccuum engagement system. With the Select-trac system you don't have it.
The Transfer case is located under the passenger comparment, its attached to the rear of the transmission, and the drive shafts will be attached to the transfer case.
2007 Jeep Liberty 4 Wheel Drive Question...?
I just got a 2007 Jeep Liberty, no manual included, so how do I use the all wheel drive? The options are.....2 HI, 4 HI, N, 4 LO. I tried a setting, and on the dash the "part time" light came on, but I don't know which setting I was actually in... WTF?|||You use the wheel drive by pressing the steering wheel in.|||Your "part-time" light indicates that your 4-wheel drive High is engaged, however, from what you described, you have the part-time 4 wheel drive system. All that means is that you should only use the 4 wheel drive on slippery surfaces. Check out Jeep.com, there is a section called 4X4 basics, and another area for owners. It will explain how and when to use your 4 wheel drive, as well as lots of other cool Jeep stuff. When that "part-time" light is on you are in 4HI, when it is off you are in 2HI or N, 4LO is only for off roading or really bad conditions, where you will be driving at speeds less than 25 M.P.H. This has a special light on the top right side of the driver display. DO NOT TRY TO ENGAGE 4LO UNLESS YOU ARE OFF ROAD, AND CHECK JEEP.COM FOR DETAILS ON HOW TO ENGAGE. You cannot just yank the shifter back, the vehicle has to be moving 2-3 MPH, transmission in N, then you can engage 4LO. Just friendly advise, as if you do it wrong, there is lots of gear grinding noise that comes from the transfer case and transmission.
Congrats on the new jeep, they are the best, I am sure you will love it. I have a 2003 Libby, and love mine.|||Are you sure you don't have a manual?? Open the glovebox door and the manual should be in a pocket above the glovebox....I thought the same thing when I bought my 05 Liberty%26gt;|||You have "Select-Trac" Part time 4 wd. Not a full time system.
You can only use it under "Slippery driving conditions".
Congrats on the new jeep, they are the best, I am sure you will love it. I have a 2003 Libby, and love mine.|||Are you sure you don't have a manual?? Open the glovebox door and the manual should be in a pocket above the glovebox....I thought the same thing when I bought my 05 Liberty%26gt;|||You have "Select-Trac" Part time 4 wd. Not a full time system.
You can only use it under "Slippery driving conditions".
Hey guys does any one know where i can find go kart parts for cheap also tires that are these sizes 4.10/3.50?
what i need is a acceleration cable 4 wheels this size 4.10/3.50-5 its for a go kart and it for my sons b day coming up soon July 15 i need to find a place online or a go kart place in northern jersey|||Wrong section, and no Go Kart parts are not cheap. The cable you should be able to get from a small engine shop. The tires should be available from the same. Any one that services Lawn Mowers etc normally carries the parts you are looking for. Hope you find the parts.
4 Wheel drive issues, 2002 F250 Superduty. Please help!?
Ok I have an 02 F250 Super Duty and I am having 4 wheel drive problems, am going to list everything that has happened so I can hopefully get help with this.
1. About 3 weeks ago I had to use the 4 wheel drive one morning and it worked fine, just as it always had before that. A couple of hours later I needed it again and it didn't lock in, unnoticed until I was stuck in the mud.
2. I lock in the hubs and turn the switch, I can hear the solenoid/acuator shifting but still have no power to the front wheels.
3. I have heard a slight grinding noise in the front left hub area a couple of times before that but it always quit before I could get pulled over to try to find the source of it.
4. I read that the vacuum pump could cause this and my heater only works on defrost, which kind of points that way but why would I still be able to hear the solenoid/acuator if this was my problem?
5. If I just unhook the vacuum and change to better quality lockin hubs how would I change from 4 hi to 4 low? Would the switch on the dash still work that part even though I have unhooked the vacuum to the front hubs?
Please help can provide any more info needed, Thanks|||sounds like you have bad vacuum seal in left front hub. Most of these have a manual lock also. It says auto one way and lock the other. The clicking noise is the transfer case locking in but the hubs have seperate control. If you have a vacuum pump you can check the hubs. If the vacuum pump is bad you won't have any a/c control from vent to defrost etc. I have tried to find aftermarket hubs for these and have had no luck but maybe they do have them. ford charges alot.
1. About 3 weeks ago I had to use the 4 wheel drive one morning and it worked fine, just as it always had before that. A couple of hours later I needed it again and it didn't lock in, unnoticed until I was stuck in the mud.
2. I lock in the hubs and turn the switch, I can hear the solenoid/acuator shifting but still have no power to the front wheels.
3. I have heard a slight grinding noise in the front left hub area a couple of times before that but it always quit before I could get pulled over to try to find the source of it.
4. I read that the vacuum pump could cause this and my heater only works on defrost, which kind of points that way but why would I still be able to hear the solenoid/acuator if this was my problem?
5. If I just unhook the vacuum and change to better quality lockin hubs how would I change from 4 hi to 4 low? Would the switch on the dash still work that part even though I have unhooked the vacuum to the front hubs?
Please help can provide any more info needed, Thanks|||sounds like you have bad vacuum seal in left front hub. Most of these have a manual lock also. It says auto one way and lock the other. The clicking noise is the transfer case locking in but the hubs have seperate control. If you have a vacuum pump you can check the hubs. If the vacuum pump is bad you won't have any a/c control from vent to defrost etc. I have tried to find aftermarket hubs for these and have had no luck but maybe they do have them. ford charges alot.
4 Wheel drive issues, 2002 F250 Superduty. Please help!?
Ok I have an 02 F250 Super Duty and I am having 4 wheel drive problems, am going to list everything that has happened so I can hopefully get help with this.
1. About 3 weeks ago I had to use the 4 wheel drive one morning and it worked fine, just as it always had before that. A couple of hours later I needed it again and it didn't lock in, unnoticed until I was stuck in the mud.
2. I lock in the hubs and turn the switch, I can hear the solenoid/acuator shifting but still have no power to the front wheels.
3. I have heard a slight grinding noise in the front left hub area a couple of times before that but it always quit before I could get pulled over to try to find the source of it.
4. I read that the vacuum pump could cause this and my heater only works on defrost, which kind of points that way but why would I still be able to hear the solenoid/acuator if this was my problem?
5. If I just unhook the vacuum and change to better quality lockin hubs how would I change from 4 hi to 4 low? Would the switch on the dash still work that part even though I have unhooked the vacuum to the front hubs?
Please help can provide any more info needed, Thanks|||If you say your heater only works on defrost, you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Check all vac. lines under the hood, making sure they are connected. I have seen some vacuum reservoirs leak.|||i would convert to manual locking hubs. electric hubs suck
1. About 3 weeks ago I had to use the 4 wheel drive one morning and it worked fine, just as it always had before that. A couple of hours later I needed it again and it didn't lock in, unnoticed until I was stuck in the mud.
2. I lock in the hubs and turn the switch, I can hear the solenoid/acuator shifting but still have no power to the front wheels.
3. I have heard a slight grinding noise in the front left hub area a couple of times before that but it always quit before I could get pulled over to try to find the source of it.
4. I read that the vacuum pump could cause this and my heater only works on defrost, which kind of points that way but why would I still be able to hear the solenoid/acuator if this was my problem?
5. If I just unhook the vacuum and change to better quality lockin hubs how would I change from 4 hi to 4 low? Would the switch on the dash still work that part even though I have unhooked the vacuum to the front hubs?
Please help can provide any more info needed, Thanks|||If you say your heater only works on defrost, you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Check all vac. lines under the hood, making sure they are connected. I have seen some vacuum reservoirs leak.|||i would convert to manual locking hubs. electric hubs suck
Using 4 wheel drive??
Hey is it bad to use 4 wheel drive on a plain surface?? Like say ur driving in snow then u drive thru a part where the snow is melted? would it mess up? if it is bad then y? and whats the fastest you can go on 4 wheel drive hi and low. If its different on vehicles mine is a 2002 Ford explorer sport? THanks!|||ALBERT S heres the score if you have an all time 4 wheel drive like say a land rover or an evo then its not bad of course but from what it sounds you have a truck/suv with selectable 4 wheel drive if this is the case then you do not want to be driving in 4 wheel drive on the road and you definately do not want to be taking turns while on dry road with four wheel drive on it is bad because if you take turns in four wheel drive you will most likely break something like the driveshaft is most common NOW LISTEN UP if you ever do take a turn while in four wheel drive and your vehicle feels like it wants to stop or other wise if it starts bucking (like the vehicle wants to go but something is holding it back) then stop IMMEDIATELY put it in reverse and back up about 50 feet to be safe, after you back up then put it in drive again if its still bucking then put it in reverse and go back even further than 50 feet if you dont do this you will snap your driveshaft.
I had this happen to me twice what happens is your driveshaft actually starts twisting like a rubberband and backing up simply kinda unwinds your driveshaft for lack of a better term both time this happened to me i just reversed it and then went on my way if i hadnt done that i would have broken something most likely my driveshaft the fastest you wanna go in 4 wheel high is i would say no more than 40 mph and only use 4 wheel low when you actually need or it is safe to use 4 wheel drive and you are towing something heavy it might be different on yours mine is a 02 silverado look in your owners manual for more detailed info on your certain vehicle|||"Your driveshaft actually starts twisting like a rubberband and backing up simply kinda unwinds your driveshaft".
Are you serious? That is one of the stupidest things that I have ever read. Your driveshaft is a hollow Steel or Aluminum tube. Once it is twisted, it is time for a new shaft.
|||It really does not matter. You could leave 4 wheel drive on all the time if you really wanted, but the reason you shouldnt is that it takes a bit more gas. There is also no real limit on speed in 4 wheel drive, feel free to drive on the interstate with 4wd in the snow, rain, or anytime you feel its needed. However i would recommend only using it when needed. and remember, 4low is for snow, ice, and whatnot, and 4high is only really needed in real bad weather or when you are stuck.|||If there are a sporadic dry patches it shouldn't be a problem. You need to avoid turning on dry pavement in 4wd. It will cause the drivetrain to bind and may break something.
Typically, try to stay under 55mph in 4HI and under 30mph in 4LO. Your owners manual should have more specific information for your exact vehicle.
I had this happen to me twice what happens is your driveshaft actually starts twisting like a rubberband and backing up simply kinda unwinds your driveshaft for lack of a better term both time this happened to me i just reversed it and then went on my way if i hadnt done that i would have broken something most likely my driveshaft the fastest you wanna go in 4 wheel high is i would say no more than 40 mph and only use 4 wheel low when you actually need or it is safe to use 4 wheel drive and you are towing something heavy it might be different on yours mine is a 02 silverado look in your owners manual for more detailed info on your certain vehicle|||"Your driveshaft actually starts twisting like a rubberband and backing up simply kinda unwinds your driveshaft".
Are you serious? That is one of the stupidest things that I have ever read. Your driveshaft is a hollow Steel or Aluminum tube. Once it is twisted, it is time for a new shaft.
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|||It really does not matter. You could leave 4 wheel drive on all the time if you really wanted, but the reason you shouldnt is that it takes a bit more gas. There is also no real limit on speed in 4 wheel drive, feel free to drive on the interstate with 4wd in the snow, rain, or anytime you feel its needed. However i would recommend only using it when needed. and remember, 4low is for snow, ice, and whatnot, and 4high is only really needed in real bad weather or when you are stuck.|||If there are a sporadic dry patches it shouldn't be a problem. You need to avoid turning on dry pavement in 4wd. It will cause the drivetrain to bind and may break something.
Typically, try to stay under 55mph in 4HI and under 30mph in 4LO. Your owners manual should have more specific information for your exact vehicle.
I have a 99 Jeep Cherokee that when i turn the wheel it shakes and it shakes hard?
tried it in 4 wheel drive and part time as well|||check your power steer belt
I have a 04 Jeep Liberty. The part time light will not go off. The 4 wheel drive level is down, what do I do?
Replace the 4WD Indicator Switch. Common problem on this vehicle. Had one in the shop the other day with the same problem. The switch that tells the light to come on is malfunctioning. The 4WD itself works fine.
Are there any pickup 4X4s that are really 4 wheel drive?
I am finally parting with my Jeep Wrangler that has true 4 wheel drive { meaning all 4 wheels engage when selected}. My past experiences with 4X4 pickups were knowing they were only two wheel drive -{ one power wheel in the front and one in the back}. I have been out of the market for a long time and can't find real reference to this subject. Do the Z71 or FX4 packages mean positraction front and back? Can anyone give me a tip on brands that may have this feature? I do not need passive 4X4 where I go. Thx|||Um, first off two-wheel-drive means only the rear wheels drive the truck. There's never been a system driven by one front and one rear wheel.
Second, if the truck says 4X4 then it's probably a true 4wd truck. Z71 started out as 4wd in the mid-'90s, but turned into more of an appearance/suspension package later on. Newer GM trucks will say both Z71 and 4X4 if they are 4wd. There's a quick and easy way to tell if a truck is 4wd. Look under the front end and see if there's an axle housing running between the front wheels. If there is then it is a 4wd vehicle. What you have to watch out for is some SUVs have all-wheel-drive systems. The Escalade is one SUV that has AWD, which can not be disengaged. It's all 4 all of the time.
As far as brands, GM, Ford and Dodge all offer trucks with 4wd. Some of them will have the "auto" option for passive 4wd, but that's something that has to be selected on the range selector switch. Most of them are also electronic, although a few trucks are available with manual selectors. Not sure which, but the dealership can give more detailed information.|||look into limited slip or locker rears front and back.
Second, if the truck says 4X4 then it's probably a true 4wd truck. Z71 started out as 4wd in the mid-'90s, but turned into more of an appearance/suspension package later on. Newer GM trucks will say both Z71 and 4X4 if they are 4wd. There's a quick and easy way to tell if a truck is 4wd. Look under the front end and see if there's an axle housing running between the front wheels. If there is then it is a 4wd vehicle. What you have to watch out for is some SUVs have all-wheel-drive systems. The Escalade is one SUV that has AWD, which can not be disengaged. It's all 4 all of the time.
As far as brands, GM, Ford and Dodge all offer trucks with 4wd. Some of them will have the "auto" option for passive 4wd, but that's something that has to be selected on the range selector switch. Most of them are also electronic, although a few trucks are available with manual selectors. Not sure which, but the dealership can give more detailed information.|||look into limited slip or locker rears front and back.
Does anyone know of a business or service that purchases old auto parts from consumers?
I have some old Honda wheels that I want to get rid of. I had bought new wheels because one of my old tires blew out and the wheel got ruined. So, in a nutshell, I have 3 out of 4 wheels left, and since no one wants to buy 3 wheels, I was wondering if there is some sort of business that would buy my old wheels as they were. Does anyone know of such a thing?
Thanks!|||if they are aluminum you can take them to a scrap yard or a recyling center or sell them on ebay.if they are tin wheels thier not worth anything
Thanks!|||if they are aluminum you can take them to a scrap yard or a recyling center or sell them on ebay.if they are tin wheels thier not worth anything
Fuel efficient, small, 4-Wheel drive car?
I'm a student in a snowy part of the country. I DO NOT want anything big like an SUV, but I would like the smallest 4 wheel drive car that is available used for a student's prices. Thanks!|||Subaru's are usually AWD
There is the Vauxhall Insignia.
A litlle Suzuki Vitara.
Subaru Forester.
Toyota Rav4|||Good luck with that, because an AWD car will be a POS at "student's prices"...
There is the Vauxhall Insignia.
A litlle Suzuki Vitara.
Subaru Forester.
Toyota Rav4|||Good luck with that, because an AWD car will be a POS at "student's prices"...
Is it possible to make a full time 4 wheel drive into a part time to wheel drive?
Exactly what the title says, i have a 2000 Grand Cherokee its full time 4 wheel drive and wondering if its possible to make it into a part timer..get better gas mileage.|||well you could always split that differential open and shave off the splines that power your wheels. Complicated but it would no doubtfully work|||Ask the dealer|||This is a confusing issue. AWD IS not 4WD. There is big differences. Yours should be All wheel Drive. This is true. HOWEVER, it's only AWD when driving circumstances beyond your control are happening. In snow, mud, or forced into that condition. There are clutches on each wheel, in AWD. When necessary, they engage. Then it's limited slip, on the front and rear. In a 4X4, you shift the lever, or push the button. One wheel in front, with traction. and a wheel in back, with traction go into action. and pull through. With AWD, no switch, sensors activate it. In order to have ALL 4 pulling together, you'd need a Detroit Locker system. AFTERMARKET. I'd trust 4X4 more, than AWD. 2000 Grand Cherokees are all wheel drive, yes, when necessary, but operating on the rear wheels when all is normal. Wheel slipage, and it decides for itself to 4X4.|||yes it is possible, but you'll have swap out your transfer case to do so. I'm guessing you have Quadra-Trac II (NV-249) in your WJ, you'll want to swap it with a NV-231 T-case (Command-Trac).
But if your going to swap T-cases to get better gas milage, that perception is largely untrue among the Jeep community and other almost all 4x4 groups since the majority owners SOLEY swap Transfer cases in order to perform better for serious off-roading and reduce basic mechanical woes of full-time 4x4 systems and nothing else. If mpg is your concern swaping out 4x4 cases in your case is a waste of your time, maintenance, and money unless you have long-term dedicated plans to hit the trails.
If anything you'll most likely gain 1-2 mpg (if your light on the pedal) and nothing more. To put it bluntly, either invest in a regular car or accept the mileage your Jeep gets.|||To add to above good answer,,on changing the transfer cases.. You might think that you can only take off the front drive shaft. DON'T DO THAT with Quadra Trac. There is a viscous clutch for the system in the transfer case and you will burn it up NOW if you remove the front drive shaft.
In reference to one of the earlier answers..you DO NOT have individual clutches on each wheel!!! Have NO idea where that came from!!
Good Luck
But if your going to swap T-cases to get better gas milage, that perception is largely untrue among the Jeep community and other almost all 4x4 groups since the majority owners SOLEY swap Transfer cases in order to perform better for serious off-roading and reduce basic mechanical woes of full-time 4x4 systems and nothing else. If mpg is your concern swaping out 4x4 cases in your case is a waste of your time, maintenance, and money unless you have long-term dedicated plans to hit the trails.
If anything you'll most likely gain 1-2 mpg (if your light on the pedal) and nothing more. To put it bluntly, either invest in a regular car or accept the mileage your Jeep gets.|||To add to above good answer,,on changing the transfer cases.. You might think that you can only take off the front drive shaft. DON'T DO THAT with Quadra Trac. There is a viscous clutch for the system in the transfer case and you will burn it up NOW if you remove the front drive shaft.
In reference to one of the earlier answers..you DO NOT have individual clutches on each wheel!!! Have NO idea where that came from!!
Good Luck
2001 jeep grand cherokee loud grinding noise and it resist's when i turn in 4 wheel drive part time?
i dont drive on the dry road with it in part time i only drive it in part time when the roads are snowy or icey. the transfer case it full but the fluid it black and runny like water.
p.s. which 4 wheel drive should i use when driving on the snowy icey roads?|||you definitely may want to crack open that transfer case and take a look and see. hmm, when was the last time you changed your transfer case fluid? could just need a changing maybe, mine was black when i bought it but then changed and a few months later still looks brand new.
you should use 4 part time/4lo when either towing or doing serious off roading since the part time locks the front and rear drive shafts. the 4 hi will be the best to use in icy/snow conditions since it will deliver torque to the wheels that lose traction in the snow instead of all the wheels locked and going the same speed no matter which loses traction and when going around any type of corners in snow that will prevent you from swerving off the road.|||sounds like the transfer case, 4wd hi only! dont want to blow a freeze plug
p.s. which 4 wheel drive should i use when driving on the snowy icey roads?|||you definitely may want to crack open that transfer case and take a look and see. hmm, when was the last time you changed your transfer case fluid? could just need a changing maybe, mine was black when i bought it but then changed and a few months later still looks brand new.
you should use 4 part time/4lo when either towing or doing serious off roading since the part time locks the front and rear drive shafts. the 4 hi will be the best to use in icy/snow conditions since it will deliver torque to the wheels that lose traction in the snow instead of all the wheels locked and going the same speed no matter which loses traction and when going around any type of corners in snow that will prevent you from swerving off the road.|||sounds like the transfer case, 4wd hi only! dont want to blow a freeze plug
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